Cairo 1

Cairo: Sofitel El Gezirah
Our hotel in Cairo is an absolutely luxurious place....a building situated at the tip of an island in the middle of the Nile that is lavishly decorated and features the latest amenities. What a place!

Shukran, Alessandro!
At this point I should thank my brother, Alessandro (Alex) who has made all the arrangements for us on this trip...from hotel to airlines - with cars picking us up and driving us from Alexandria to Cairo and back. Alex was supposed to join us on this trip...and we're sad he could not make it because we know he would have added a lot of color to our adventures. He called us all the time...just to make sure we were OK - which was very nice. So...in case anyone is interested in traveling to Europe, I would highly recommend that you drop him a note: tsp.gesi@tiscali.it

The Nile River
The views from the hotel are absolutely spectacular. From our room we can see several of the bridges that cross the Nile, and the busy Cairo skyline dotted with tall buildings and many, many mosques. At night the view is even better...with the city lit up from one end to the other. And, at street level, one can walk outside and watch the Nile flow by. There's something magic about rivers...and in the case of the Nile, it is simply amazing...especially if you stop to think about the thousands of years, the many great dynasties, and the millions of people that have inhabited its shores and survived because of its waters.

Mike O'Malley makes it to Cairo.
Cairo is where we were supposed to meet up with my best friend from college: Michael O'Malley...and his son, Chris. Mike was already in Cairo when we arrived and Chris would join us the next day. Mike is an indomitable traveler who has visited countries across the globe and spends much of his time in exotic destinations. We met up with Mike on our first evening in Cairo....and - after one day in the city - he was already full of stories and adventures. To start with he told us how he talked his way into Wimbledon during the tennis tournament (a little side trip he made since he had about a ten hour layover in London). Few people can pull off this type of stunt...but barely anything that Mike does amazes me anymore. Next, he told us about making a few friends in Islamic Cairo...one of whom took him to the top of a minaret...from which he could get an amazing view of Cairo's rooftops. His "buddy's" name is Mohammed and he owns a spice shop in Khan El-Khalili (Cairo's famously chaotic bazaar). The other fellow he met owns a perfume shop down the street from Mohammed's spice emporium. Later, we would get to meet both of these characters.

Dinner in the alleyway.
By the time that Mike made it back to the hotel, night time was approaching and we decided to head out to dinner. We settled for a place called Ar Rifai, in Midan Saiyida Zeinab in the Islamic section of Cairo. At the base of the hotel we opted to take a regular taxi instead of the hotel car...which would save us the princely sum of $5. However, as soon as we departed it became fairly apparent that the cab driver had no idea where this place was...and we had a bit of a time explaining where we needed to go. Finally - after asking many different people for directions - we ended up through a crowded doorway into an empty lot with a few tables outside in the dirt..and from there into a narrow alleyway where they were cooking sheesh-kebabs. No one spoke English..and I forgot my phrase book, but the folks were very hospitable and helped me order some food for us - which ended up being delicious. By the time we left, we felt quite at home...and on the way out we took pictures of us holding on to skewers with th erest of the kitchen staff. BTW: We're pretty sure that we never made it to Ar Rifai...but this place was excellent!!!

A little Shisha
In Egypt water pipes are called Shisha. In nicer cafes, they come in a variety of flavors from apple to mango to melasses. The café that we stumbled upon after our meal only offered tobacco flavor and it was quite harsh...but, hey...that's the Cairo experience!!! Mike and I enjoyed a little smoke after dinner while Jake watched on - having had enough water pipe experiences in Istanbul. After our smoke we headed back to the hotel...where we drank a couple of beers overlooking the view...and by 3:00am we were ready to lay our heads to sleep. Note: People think that I don't need much sleep..well, Mr. O'Malley puts me to shame...and keeps going and going and going...and then passes out. Of course I have to wait until he's passed out before i go to bed as well - not being one to retire before my friends.

The Citadel
At the far left of Alexandria's corniche sits a fortress, called the Citadel that was built by Sultain Quaitbay around 1477. The massive walls of this austere building stand as strong as they once did, and we imagine that - with its cannons pointed towards the sea, it made for quite a deterrent for potential enemies thinking about coming into Alexandria's port.
According to the histories told about the Citadel, it was built using some of the blocks remaining after the legendary Alexandria lighthouse crumbled because of a severe earthquake that devastated most of the region.

On the way there we walked by the coast, taking in the scenery. We saw fishermen mending their fishing nets...and workers busily repairing boats. We also walked by busy beaches were families sat under umbrellas enjoying the breezy seaside air - and we were not all to surprised to see that the women wore the same exact outfits they wear on the street...with many covered head to toe in black, including black gloves.

The Citadel itself was crowded with tourists...most of which were Middle Eastern. Here, one of the guards took for a "private" tour...and for that we gave him some "bakshish" (or tip). This was our first of what would become routine encounters with people offering their services and then unceremoniously expecting a tip in return. This is simply the way things are done here...so we played along.

Montaza Farouk
Later in the day we went to lunch at Mohammed Ahmed..where we enjoyed a great meal of Felafels, Hummus and Tahini. After which we headed to Montaza Farouk...which is a palace that was built by and for King Farouk...and now is used to house visiting heads of state when they happen to be in Egypt. The building sits in the middle of a large park by the seaside...way on the right hand side of Alexandria's corniche. We walked the grounds...let the breeze cool us down a bit...then we headed for our next adventure.

Colorful Fabric
Along several of our excursions I noticed a colorful fabric being used for a variety of purposes...from covering construction sites...to temporary tents for religious prayer or celebrations. The fabric features geometric patterns with very distinctively Arabic designs...and they use bright primary colors.
Determined to bring some of it home, we explained to our taxi driver what we wanted...and he obliged us by taking us to a place where we could purchase some of it from his "friend". We bought a piece that is about 5ftX10ft. The front is a silk-like material...and the back is heavy ticking fabric...making it a rather bulky souvenir - but, hey...that's not that unusual for me to buy something that is somewhat difficult to bring back! (My guess is that we'll have to ship it from Cairo). I still don't know what to do with it once I get it back..but it might make for a spectacular tablecloth for a big Middle Eastern styled feast.

Alexandria: 2 - Schutz

Schutz American School
The two high school years I spent in Alexandria where some of the best of my life. That is when I fell in love with the city of Alexandria, and with Egypt and its people...and that is one of the reasons I wanted to bring Jake here after he graduated from High School. So...we made a pilgrimage to Schutz American School...with more than a litttle trepidation on my part and a quite a bit of anticipation.

As we drove the narrow, dusty street that lead to the front gate of the school, a wave of familiarity washed over me. My mind struggled to remember details from those days long ago, when Jimmy - our driver - would drop us off and pick us up from school...driving up and down the same street that I was now checking out from the back of the taxi, with Jake at my side.

At the gate, the guard that sat outside was still there, like in the old days...and the gate itself was a lot like I remembered as well. We arrived late and the school was about to close...and there was no one there but a gatekeeper. We explained to him that I had attended that school and he let us wander in and take a look at the buildings. I walked up the driveway and was surprised to see how little things had changed. The basketball court on the left was till there...as was the cafeteria with the boarding rooms above it. At he top of the driveway there were a couple of round cement tables with benches around them...and I remembered sitting there long ago discussing politics and Camus with my friend, Milan Palian. The building that housed the classrooms where we studied Middle Eastern history and philosophy was also mostly unchanged. The pool was also virtually the same. However, the place that I had hoped would not have changed at all was the one that had changed the most...and that was the tennis court. There I played long games of tennis with Milan under the Egyptian sun...on a court that was surfaced in tiles...and was the fastest surface I have ever experienced. Today, they've turned it into a multi-sport facility...and it has a roof to shield the athletes from the sun.

The visit to Schutz was a highlight for me. I enjoyed sharing he experience with Jake and walking him through some of the places I had spent so much time in at his age.

Alexandria: 1 - Impressions.

Alexandria: A city that has lost its charm.
I spent a couple of my most formative and most wonderful years in Alexandria...and I was anxious to visit the city that held such a fond place in my heart and in my memories. As it turns out, Alexandria is no longer the place it used to be. Although there is still some of the old charm left, the graceful city with its elegant architecture has evolved into a sprawling metropolis stretching itself on the shores of the Mediterranean. The buildings that line the "Corniche" - which is the street that runs along the sea - is littered with large new buildings (most of which are fine examples of perfectly mediocre design and generally poor building standards) next to old decrepit structures that once had lots of style but are now falling apart in a sad state of neglect. And, in between the two are long stretches of absolutely horrific walls decorated with tiles that I am sure have Cleopatra and Nefertiti turning in their graves in shame for what her descendants are building on the remains of what was once such a beautiful place.

Alexandria occasionally reveals glimpses of its former glory...but it took me some time to get over the shock of how much the place had changed in 30 years. In the photos here, are some of the stuff we observed on one of our walks from one side of the city to the other.

Alexandria is in the Middle East.
Being in Alexandria was clearly different than Istanbul. Although Alexandria was once famed for its European influence, it was obvious we were now in a Middle Eastern city. For example, as opposed to Istanbul, we saw many people praying on rugs laid out on sidewalks. And, the way that people seem to ignore the cars heading straight for them at breakneck speed (with no intention to slow down) combined with the food being sold at street corners and off of carts everywhere, all contribute to a state of general chaos that is so foreign to Westerners...and is so definitely reflective of the Arabic culture.

Americans are considered terrorists.
Alexandria let us know we were now in Egypt....yet, for most part its people were friendly and affable towards us...even if, in general, Americans come from a country whose leadership has severely damaged the nation's reputation and credibility. We must not forget that in Muslim countries, America is considered the terrorist enemy. For some of the most uneducated folks (and there are many of them in Egypt - as there are also many back at home) sometimes it is difficult to separate their feelings for the American government from their feelings for the American people...even though many Americans do not agree with their government's policies. That said, many people made it clear that they did not like Bush...but that did not mean they did not like Americans. However, the vibe is sometimes a bit uncomfortable and some times unnerving.

Patisserie Delices
And now for a food update: The internet fees in our hotel were outrageous....so we found a café across the street that offered us a respite from the heat and free internet access. Café Delices is an old café next to the Metropole Hotel, and here we discovered the most delicious lemon juice and the best pastries in Alexandria. Let it be said, that we spent some time there every day..and that Jake was very happy to continue to indulge in his search for the perfect Baklava.

Traveler's Diarrhea.
On the basis of keeping friend and family informed of our travel adventures, we would be remiss not to mention that by the time we got to Alexandria, Jake and I had contracted a nice case of "Traveler's Diarrhea". For everybody's sake I will not go into detail...or post any pictures documenting this unpleasant aspect of our travels....let's just say it was not pretty. (We're much better now, BTW!).

Alexandria: 1 - The Library

The Great Library of Alexandria.
Built about five or six years ago, the Alexandria library is possibly one of the most impressive modern buildings I have ever visited. I believe that the goal was to create a modern version of the fabled Alexandria Library from ancient times - that was rumored to house more books than any other building in the world...and was lost to a fire. More than a library, the building feels like a cathedral built to celebrate the written word. The immense building is very unorthodox both from the outside as the inside.

The outside looks like a an angled stadium with lots of glass and metal. The façade, a curved surface emerging from the ground and reflecting the bright sunlight and the blue sky, reminded me of a gigantic solar panel. Once inside, the building reveals a very large open space supported by tall cement columns that reach up to an intricate ceiling. The ceiling shields the space from direct sunlight, while allowing plenty of natural light to illuminate the interiors. Some of the light is filtered through colored glass, which adds to the jewel-like effect of the architectural glass.

The interiors showcase a delicate balance of shapes, textures and finishes that create a dynamic and complex environment. The space has a very spiritual quality that combines Arabic themes with modern materials and shapes...and I could see that this could be a prototype for a modern Mosque.

The building is visited by many school children and people that also seem to use it for what is intended...a place to read books. Additionally, the library has several spaces dedicated to permanent and temporary museum exhibitions that range from architectural artifacts and Islamic calligraphy, to modern art and retrospectives of the work of local artists, musicians, film makers, etc. We walked through most of the exhibits, including a temporary exhibit of works on paper that featured hand-made books by artists from all over the world.