Yanek's Place.

A visit to Yanek and Ayelet's home.
On our way back to Tel Aviv, Yanek first checked with his wife, then invited us to stop by his house so we could see where he lives. This was quite unexpected...yet something that I thought would be great fun, and I was very happy that he suggested it.

Yanek lives in a tall apartment building that he shares with his lovely wife, Ayelet and his two children...a boy of 14 and a girl who is 11 years old - both very polite and sweet kids who, like most kids their age in the US have busy social lives with many friends and who spend their spare time on the internet checking ot the latest music..or simply exchanging messages via IM. Yanek's apartment is high up on the building and from there one gets a clear view of the park below that is shared with the other buildings...and creates a safe playground for the kids.

Ayelet is a talented and successful textile designer who has her studio in her house...a room filled with all sorts of reference pieces of paper and miscellaneous graphic ephemera.
By the way, check out her blog...it includes amongst many beautiful reference images a few drawings I gave to Yonek as a small token of my gratitude for his hospitality. Ayelet's blog is:

http://alloverprint.blogspot.com/

We sat down in their comfortable living room, a place dominated by a wall filled with books and artifacts...and we shared a few glasses of Russian Standard as we chatted about life, art and design. Yanek and Ayelet shared with us their wedding photo album (they were married the same year that Stacy and I tied the know) and they looked young and happy in the photos from their wedding and reception that took place in a gallery in Old Jaffa.

Finally, Ayelet left to see the movie "Sex in the City" with some girlfriends..and Yanek drove us back to our hotel...so we could pack and sleep for a couple of hours before our 3:00am wake up call to head to the airport and board a plane to Turkey...where we would embark on our trip to Egypt.

It was sad to say goodbye...but I know we will see each other again soon.

Jerusalem: Part 7

The Armenian Section
This section of town is clean, quite and very nicely maintained. The churches are in keeping with Christian tradition and they are filled with mosaics, paintings and ceramics...as well as many hanging lights. Yet they are less showy and seem more austere than their Catholic counterparts. The walls of the streets seemed less marked by graffiti, an the shops and restaurants are well kept. Obviously, the Armenian people are an industrious bunch. Yet, even here there were signs of political strife...and we noticed that on several walls there were posters providing a graphic reminder of the Armenian genocide by the Turks. The poster featured photos of emaciated people surrounding a map of Armenian indicating the places where the most people were killed...and apparently the total was about 1 million innocent people that were executed by the Ottoman Empire during their occupation of the Armenian country. I was only slightly aware of this history...but I will look into it more after I return...as those posters did their job, and motivated me to find out about this sordid set of events.

All in all, the visit to Jerusalem was a highlight of this trip...and the kind of once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimages that will not easily be forgotten. Once again, I'd like to thank Yanek for his generosity, for taking the time to driveus there and show us around, and for being such a great guide. Should his second career as a model not work out, he can always earn his living by guiding folks through Jerusalem! :))

Jerusalem: Part 6

The Arabic Quarter
By the time we exited the Christian churches we were all hungry and a little lightheaded. So, Yanek took us to Abu Shukri - the best and most authentic restaurant in Jerusalem. The place is located in a cavernous building, where the halls seem carved out of rock...and it feels like it has remained unchanged in spirit for centuries. The place was packed with what seemed like visiting Arabs and locals, as well as people of many nationalities. And the food was as good as they come. We had a double order of felafels...and we sampled three varieties of hummus...which were also accompanied with several plates of fresh vegetables. We sat there for a while, feasting on the food and the atmosphere..and enjoying the cool respite from the hot sun. Jake was in his element...and thoroughly enjoyed several helpings of each item...comparing and contrasting taste and textures with the expertise of a young food critic. Afterwards, our stomachs full, we wandered through the bazaar that extends through much of the Arabic section...were vendors sell all sorts of souvenirs as well as fabrics, spices, toys, jewelry, etc. At some point, the Mosque's megaphones summoned people to prayer and we witnessed a stream of men walking in a very determined fashion towards the mosque with serious expressions in their faces, they seemed to be responding to a call to arms...and Yanek felt somewhat uncomfortable (he told us later). So, because it was time for us to move on, we wandered towards the Armenian section.

Jerusalem: Part 5

The Christian Quarter
Next, we walked to the Christian quarter and entered a massive church that included many sections representing the various sects of Chrstianity...and the many different cultures and nationalities that have embraced this religion. Some of these sections were unassuming and haphazard...and others were opulent and formally appointed. We wandered from one to the next...admiring altars and depictions of Christ and of the Virgin Mary executed in mosaics, paintings, tapestries and even painted on mirror (in one version that was done in exceptionally bad taste...unfortunately this was located in St. Jacob's Church). Most of it was very ornamental and decorative...meant to celebrate religion through monumental architecture and artistic devotion. However, for me, as opposed to enhancing the spirituality of the place it obscured it...and it seemed to focus my attention on the decorations. Although I enjoy churches for their artistic and architectural nature, I've always felt that the obstentatious display of wealth takes away from the spiritual nature of those places. The churches in Jerusalem were similarly disappointing for me. The hordes of tourists taking turns to sit on the place where Jesus was buried, taking snapshot portraits of themselves felt more like a carnival than a Holy place. Instead of feeling connected, I want to distance myself from this type of religion. It does not seem authentic or honest...and more focused on ritual and display than on true spirituality. At the nd, I was happy to walk out the door...and head towards the Arabic quarter in search of hummus and felaffels.

Jerusalem: Part 4

Guns.
The holy city is not without its reminders that this is an area subject to violent demonstrations and acts of terrorism. As such, we noticed a proliferation of armed guards...especially around the Jewish holy sites (namely the Wailing Wall).

Jerusalem: Part 3

The Wailing Wall
Any pilgrimage to Jerusalem must include a stop at the Wailing Wall. This is one of the remaining walls from the Temple of Solomon and a heavily protected site. We went trough security, and I observed several armed guards and armed escorts...a reminder that we are in a place that is not only a religious destination, but also a place marked by violent struggle for power. However, we quickly dismissed thoughts of politics and focused on the spiritual impact of a place associated with religion from the beginning of recorded history. Yanek provided us with a small notebook on which we could write our wishes...and, as is tradition, walk up to the wall and stick the folded pieces of paper in the crevaces between the stones. For me, the moments I stood near the wall and touched the rocks that have held it up for millenia, were the most spiritual moments of this trip. I felt an overwhelming sense of history...and the human condition. I felt how small my life is and yet how large it could be. I felt connected to the world in a way that is much deeper than I allow myself to experience...and a very powerful feeling ran through my veins as I focused on the people that I love...my family, my friends...and people in general. Somehow, I felt that my wishes had a destination...and they were being heard. And that is a very interesting notion for someone who had proclaimed themselves a devout atheist for most of his life. Leave it to Jerusalem!

Jake also walked up to the wall and deposited his wishes...as did Yanek. It was a very personal time, that I expect was different for each of us.

Jerusalem: Part 2

Jaffa Gate
We parked the car and Yanek led us through Jaffa Gate...one of many gates entering the old city. He took on the role of guide very seriously, and told us much about Jerusalem during our visit. He explained that the city is made up of four sections...including a Jewish section, an Arabic section, a Christian section and an Armenian Section....and then proceeded to walk us through each. Old Jerusalem is, as one would expect, an intricate maze of narrow streets and covered passageways...with buildings that date back centuries and reflect many different styles and periods of architecture with influences from a variety of cultures. The streets are crowded with merchants and tourists...adding to the cacophony because of the range of clothing styles as well as the many different languages that can be heard at once. We started with the Jewish section...where many of the buildings have been renovated and modernized. Although it is all done in good taste, I prefer to have old cities look like old cities. That said, Jerusalem is an impressive place in every way.

The images in this posting are of the textures and patterns we observed as we walked through the gate. By the way...we also stopped per Yanek's suggestion and indulged in some bread and marjoram...what a treat!!!!

Jerusalem: Part 1

Our visit to Jerusalem.
On our last day in Israel, Yanek volunteered to be our guide to Jerusalem. We were excited to see the Holy City..and to spend more time with our new friend. With usual punctuality, Yanek called us while on his way, and picked us up in front of the hotel at 9:00am...and we set out for our adventure. The drive takes about an hour or so. We took the highway, and I was surprised at many things along the way...including the fact that the road is in excellent condition...with smooth asphalt, wide lanes, and good signage...but also with the landscape through which it took us. I had a preconceived notion of Israel as a country marked by a dry and rocky landscape, but instead of a never ending desert, the road took us through patches that came very close to looking as if we were in those parts of California that remind me of Tuscany's countryside. Jake - as he has done since he was little - napped along the way, but not before catching some of the landscape.

Arriving to Jerusalem.
As we arrived to Jerusalem we were greeted by the sight of a city entirely built from Jerusalem stone - according to a city ordinance requiring that this be the only material that is used on the exterior of buildings. Although this is definitely a limiting factor in terms of the architectural texture, the buildings include a wide variety of styles and shapes that don't let the city feel dull. Another thing that is hard to miss is the new bridge by the Spanish architect Calatravas...a white wing-like structure that jets out to the sky seemingly defying gravity...and looking more like a sculpture than a structural piece of engineering. I can see why this is considered controversial, but in my opinion it is symbolic of the courageous spirit of the Israeli...and their apparent strong desire to combine modernity with tradition. Jerusalem, BTW, is a sprawling city...much larger than Tel Aviv. It is the capital of Israel and the city where the Israeli Prime Minister lives and where the country's Parliament is located. Of course Jake knew all this...but it was news to me. I am afraid that my apolitical tendencies and lack of interest have left me embarrassingly uninformed and uneducated about much of what happens around the world. Luckily, Jake can fill in in the many gaps since he keeps himself keenly abreast of the issues.
BTW: Jerusalem is the place where Jake decided to try out his new hat. Please vote on whether or not he should keep this look going. WE'RE LOOKING FOR YOUR VOTE , PLEASE!!!

Tel Aviv: Day 2 - Texture

The city's texture.
By now, most people that know me also know that I obsessively capture the graffiti and graphic texture of virtually every place that I visit. And, poor Jake has had to endure many stops when I would cross the street to take a photo of torn down advertisements, graffiti, or signage that captured my attention. He has been incredibly patient...and I am sharing this because to me these photos represent the textures of cities...that are so similar from place to place, yet also quite distinctive due to the nature of the language and visuals that are unique to each country and to each city. I hope you like them...and if you don't - well, it's easy enough to scroll past them.
:)

Tel Aviv: Day 3 - Jake's Photos

Jake as a photographer.
One of the many things I have had the fortune to realize about Jake during this trip is that he has a talent as a photographer. His eyes see things that mine don't...and he has a knack for composition that is completely intuitive and quite unstudied...thus refreshing. Here are a few of his snapshots...and there are many more. This post is to quell the vicious rumors that all he does is eat!!!
:)

Tel Aviv: Day 3 - Tartakover

Meeting David Tartakover
Yanek called us while we were at the beach and told us he had a surprise for us, and wanted us to meet someone that he knew we would enjoy. So, we went back to our hitel, took a quick shower and headed for the Fontef studio. From there we set out on foot towards the section of town Jake and I had liked best on our walk to Jaffa and is called Nachalat Binyamin. On the way, Yanek explained that we were about to meet one of the most important figures in Israeli design...the winner of the Israeli Prize for design, an a good friend of his. We arrived at an unassuming building and rang the doorbell. As soon as the door opened and we entered the building we knew we were in for a very special visit. The rooms were covered in interesting artwork, posters and signage, creating a beautiful and visually inspiring setting. On the left side of the room there were two large windows with many panes...each had been covered by a simple sheet of paper crudely taped to the glass - which created an effective way to diffuse the harsh sun light and veil the view. The result was very pleasant in terms of light, and also a piece of art in itself.

A man whose work defines the Israeli struggle.
David Tartakover is a bit gruff, yet a very polite man who speaks English very well. He may be in his sixties. - or maybe he's older..but he has the energy of a much younger man. He looks like a more mature version of myself and Yanek combined - another bald designer from Israel. His persona is larger than life - he is someone that knows that he has accomplished a great deal and values his own "oeuvre". Yanek asked him to share with us what he has been working on...and David did so, but first he requested from Yanek a pledge of secrecy. Then, he sat at his computer and walked us through a book he is designing that will be a compendium of forty years of his work...to be published on the 100th anniversary of the State of Israel. In fact, over the last forty years, David's work has grown to influence and define much of the way that the Israeli design and arts community has expressed the political struggle and strife within the country and its people. David's work is not beautiful in the traditional sense...instead it is powerful and meaningful...it is purposeful and visceral...and it is very impressive in its breadth and in its message. As we were leaving David gave me a gift - a book of work that he created in anticipation, during and after Sadat's visit to Israel. I am very excited to own this small book...and I feel honored to have had an opportunity to spend some time with a man of such strong vision and commitment. This was yet another gift that Yanek gave me during my visit...and perhaps one of the most memorable experiences of this entire trip.
Tartakover's work.
I am enclosing one of David's famous posters from a series called "STAIN". This one is a self portrait...but the series includes photos of many famous and infamous political figures whose portraits were partially obscured by a map of the West Bank in (blood) red - one of the many series of powerfully graphic, powerfully political works that he has created to build awareness for the state of affairs in Israel. For a view of David's work, please visit: http://www.tartakover.co.il/