Yanek's Place.

A visit to Yanek and Ayelet's home.
On our way back to Tel Aviv, Yanek first checked with his wife, then invited us to stop by his house so we could see where he lives. This was quite unexpected...yet something that I thought would be great fun, and I was very happy that he suggested it.

Yanek lives in a tall apartment building that he shares with his lovely wife, Ayelet and his two children...a boy of 14 and a girl who is 11 years old - both very polite and sweet kids who, like most kids their age in the US have busy social lives with many friends and who spend their spare time on the internet checking ot the latest music..or simply exchanging messages via IM. Yanek's apartment is high up on the building and from there one gets a clear view of the park below that is shared with the other buildings...and creates a safe playground for the kids.

Ayelet is a talented and successful textile designer who has her studio in her house...a room filled with all sorts of reference pieces of paper and miscellaneous graphic ephemera.
By the way, check out her blog...it includes amongst many beautiful reference images a few drawings I gave to Yonek as a small token of my gratitude for his hospitality. Ayelet's blog is:

http://alloverprint.blogspot.com/

We sat down in their comfortable living room, a place dominated by a wall filled with books and artifacts...and we shared a few glasses of Russian Standard as we chatted about life, art and design. Yanek and Ayelet shared with us their wedding photo album (they were married the same year that Stacy and I tied the know) and they looked young and happy in the photos from their wedding and reception that took place in a gallery in Old Jaffa.

Finally, Ayelet left to see the movie "Sex in the City" with some girlfriends..and Yanek drove us back to our hotel...so we could pack and sleep for a couple of hours before our 3:00am wake up call to head to the airport and board a plane to Turkey...where we would embark on our trip to Egypt.

It was sad to say goodbye...but I know we will see each other again soon.

Jerusalem: Part 7

The Armenian Section
This section of town is clean, quite and very nicely maintained. The churches are in keeping with Christian tradition and they are filled with mosaics, paintings and ceramics...as well as many hanging lights. Yet they are less showy and seem more austere than their Catholic counterparts. The walls of the streets seemed less marked by graffiti, an the shops and restaurants are well kept. Obviously, the Armenian people are an industrious bunch. Yet, even here there were signs of political strife...and we noticed that on several walls there were posters providing a graphic reminder of the Armenian genocide by the Turks. The poster featured photos of emaciated people surrounding a map of Armenian indicating the places where the most people were killed...and apparently the total was about 1 million innocent people that were executed by the Ottoman Empire during their occupation of the Armenian country. I was only slightly aware of this history...but I will look into it more after I return...as those posters did their job, and motivated me to find out about this sordid set of events.

All in all, the visit to Jerusalem was a highlight of this trip...and the kind of once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimages that will not easily be forgotten. Once again, I'd like to thank Yanek for his generosity, for taking the time to driveus there and show us around, and for being such a great guide. Should his second career as a model not work out, he can always earn his living by guiding folks through Jerusalem! :))

Jerusalem: Part 6

The Arabic Quarter
By the time we exited the Christian churches we were all hungry and a little lightheaded. So, Yanek took us to Abu Shukri - the best and most authentic restaurant in Jerusalem. The place is located in a cavernous building, where the halls seem carved out of rock...and it feels like it has remained unchanged in spirit for centuries. The place was packed with what seemed like visiting Arabs and locals, as well as people of many nationalities. And the food was as good as they come. We had a double order of felafels...and we sampled three varieties of hummus...which were also accompanied with several plates of fresh vegetables. We sat there for a while, feasting on the food and the atmosphere..and enjoying the cool respite from the hot sun. Jake was in his element...and thoroughly enjoyed several helpings of each item...comparing and contrasting taste and textures with the expertise of a young food critic. Afterwards, our stomachs full, we wandered through the bazaar that extends through much of the Arabic section...were vendors sell all sorts of souvenirs as well as fabrics, spices, toys, jewelry, etc. At some point, the Mosque's megaphones summoned people to prayer and we witnessed a stream of men walking in a very determined fashion towards the mosque with serious expressions in their faces, they seemed to be responding to a call to arms...and Yanek felt somewhat uncomfortable (he told us later). So, because it was time for us to move on, we wandered towards the Armenian section.

Jerusalem: Part 5

The Christian Quarter
Next, we walked to the Christian quarter and entered a massive church that included many sections representing the various sects of Chrstianity...and the many different cultures and nationalities that have embraced this religion. Some of these sections were unassuming and haphazard...and others were opulent and formally appointed. We wandered from one to the next...admiring altars and depictions of Christ and of the Virgin Mary executed in mosaics, paintings, tapestries and even painted on mirror (in one version that was done in exceptionally bad taste...unfortunately this was located in St. Jacob's Church). Most of it was very ornamental and decorative...meant to celebrate religion through monumental architecture and artistic devotion. However, for me, as opposed to enhancing the spirituality of the place it obscured it...and it seemed to focus my attention on the decorations. Although I enjoy churches for their artistic and architectural nature, I've always felt that the obstentatious display of wealth takes away from the spiritual nature of those places. The churches in Jerusalem were similarly disappointing for me. The hordes of tourists taking turns to sit on the place where Jesus was buried, taking snapshot portraits of themselves felt more like a carnival than a Holy place. Instead of feeling connected, I want to distance myself from this type of religion. It does not seem authentic or honest...and more focused on ritual and display than on true spirituality. At the nd, I was happy to walk out the door...and head towards the Arabic quarter in search of hummus and felaffels.

Jerusalem: Part 4

Guns.
The holy city is not without its reminders that this is an area subject to violent demonstrations and acts of terrorism. As such, we noticed a proliferation of armed guards...especially around the Jewish holy sites (namely the Wailing Wall).

Jerusalem: Part 3

The Wailing Wall
Any pilgrimage to Jerusalem must include a stop at the Wailing Wall. This is one of the remaining walls from the Temple of Solomon and a heavily protected site. We went trough security, and I observed several armed guards and armed escorts...a reminder that we are in a place that is not only a religious destination, but also a place marked by violent struggle for power. However, we quickly dismissed thoughts of politics and focused on the spiritual impact of a place associated with religion from the beginning of recorded history. Yanek provided us with a small notebook on which we could write our wishes...and, as is tradition, walk up to the wall and stick the folded pieces of paper in the crevaces between the stones. For me, the moments I stood near the wall and touched the rocks that have held it up for millenia, were the most spiritual moments of this trip. I felt an overwhelming sense of history...and the human condition. I felt how small my life is and yet how large it could be. I felt connected to the world in a way that is much deeper than I allow myself to experience...and a very powerful feeling ran through my veins as I focused on the people that I love...my family, my friends...and people in general. Somehow, I felt that my wishes had a destination...and they were being heard. And that is a very interesting notion for someone who had proclaimed themselves a devout atheist for most of his life. Leave it to Jerusalem!

Jake also walked up to the wall and deposited his wishes...as did Yanek. It was a very personal time, that I expect was different for each of us.

Jerusalem: Part 2

Jaffa Gate
We parked the car and Yanek led us through Jaffa Gate...one of many gates entering the old city. He took on the role of guide very seriously, and told us much about Jerusalem during our visit. He explained that the city is made up of four sections...including a Jewish section, an Arabic section, a Christian section and an Armenian Section....and then proceeded to walk us through each. Old Jerusalem is, as one would expect, an intricate maze of narrow streets and covered passageways...with buildings that date back centuries and reflect many different styles and periods of architecture with influences from a variety of cultures. The streets are crowded with merchants and tourists...adding to the cacophony because of the range of clothing styles as well as the many different languages that can be heard at once. We started with the Jewish section...where many of the buildings have been renovated and modernized. Although it is all done in good taste, I prefer to have old cities look like old cities. That said, Jerusalem is an impressive place in every way.

The images in this posting are of the textures and patterns we observed as we walked through the gate. By the way...we also stopped per Yanek's suggestion and indulged in some bread and marjoram...what a treat!!!!

Jerusalem: Part 1

Our visit to Jerusalem.
On our last day in Israel, Yanek volunteered to be our guide to Jerusalem. We were excited to see the Holy City..and to spend more time with our new friend. With usual punctuality, Yanek called us while on his way, and picked us up in front of the hotel at 9:00am...and we set out for our adventure. The drive takes about an hour or so. We took the highway, and I was surprised at many things along the way...including the fact that the road is in excellent condition...with smooth asphalt, wide lanes, and good signage...but also with the landscape through which it took us. I had a preconceived notion of Israel as a country marked by a dry and rocky landscape, but instead of a never ending desert, the road took us through patches that came very close to looking as if we were in those parts of California that remind me of Tuscany's countryside. Jake - as he has done since he was little - napped along the way, but not before catching some of the landscape.

Arriving to Jerusalem.
As we arrived to Jerusalem we were greeted by the sight of a city entirely built from Jerusalem stone - according to a city ordinance requiring that this be the only material that is used on the exterior of buildings. Although this is definitely a limiting factor in terms of the architectural texture, the buildings include a wide variety of styles and shapes that don't let the city feel dull. Another thing that is hard to miss is the new bridge by the Spanish architect Calatravas...a white wing-like structure that jets out to the sky seemingly defying gravity...and looking more like a sculpture than a structural piece of engineering. I can see why this is considered controversial, but in my opinion it is symbolic of the courageous spirit of the Israeli...and their apparent strong desire to combine modernity with tradition. Jerusalem, BTW, is a sprawling city...much larger than Tel Aviv. It is the capital of Israel and the city where the Israeli Prime Minister lives and where the country's Parliament is located. Of course Jake knew all this...but it was news to me. I am afraid that my apolitical tendencies and lack of interest have left me embarrassingly uninformed and uneducated about much of what happens around the world. Luckily, Jake can fill in in the many gaps since he keeps himself keenly abreast of the issues.
BTW: Jerusalem is the place where Jake decided to try out his new hat. Please vote on whether or not he should keep this look going. WE'RE LOOKING FOR YOUR VOTE , PLEASE!!!

Tel Aviv: Day 2 - Texture

The city's texture.
By now, most people that know me also know that I obsessively capture the graffiti and graphic texture of virtually every place that I visit. And, poor Jake has had to endure many stops when I would cross the street to take a photo of torn down advertisements, graffiti, or signage that captured my attention. He has been incredibly patient...and I am sharing this because to me these photos represent the textures of cities...that are so similar from place to place, yet also quite distinctive due to the nature of the language and visuals that are unique to each country and to each city. I hope you like them...and if you don't - well, it's easy enough to scroll past them.
:)

Tel Aviv: Day 3 - Jake's Photos

Jake as a photographer.
One of the many things I have had the fortune to realize about Jake during this trip is that he has a talent as a photographer. His eyes see things that mine don't...and he has a knack for composition that is completely intuitive and quite unstudied...thus refreshing. Here are a few of his snapshots...and there are many more. This post is to quell the vicious rumors that all he does is eat!!!
:)

Tel Aviv: Day 3 - Tartakover

Meeting David Tartakover
Yanek called us while we were at the beach and told us he had a surprise for us, and wanted us to meet someone that he knew we would enjoy. So, we went back to our hitel, took a quick shower and headed for the Fontef studio. From there we set out on foot towards the section of town Jake and I had liked best on our walk to Jaffa and is called Nachalat Binyamin. On the way, Yanek explained that we were about to meet one of the most important figures in Israeli design...the winner of the Israeli Prize for design, an a good friend of his. We arrived at an unassuming building and rang the doorbell. As soon as the door opened and we entered the building we knew we were in for a very special visit. The rooms were covered in interesting artwork, posters and signage, creating a beautiful and visually inspiring setting. On the left side of the room there were two large windows with many panes...each had been covered by a simple sheet of paper crudely taped to the glass - which created an effective way to diffuse the harsh sun light and veil the view. The result was very pleasant in terms of light, and also a piece of art in itself.

A man whose work defines the Israeli struggle.
David Tartakover is a bit gruff, yet a very polite man who speaks English very well. He may be in his sixties. - or maybe he's older..but he has the energy of a much younger man. He looks like a more mature version of myself and Yanek combined - another bald designer from Israel. His persona is larger than life - he is someone that knows that he has accomplished a great deal and values his own "oeuvre". Yanek asked him to share with us what he has been working on...and David did so, but first he requested from Yanek a pledge of secrecy. Then, he sat at his computer and walked us through a book he is designing that will be a compendium of forty years of his work...to be published on the 100th anniversary of the State of Israel. In fact, over the last forty years, David's work has grown to influence and define much of the way that the Israeli design and arts community has expressed the political struggle and strife within the country and its people. David's work is not beautiful in the traditional sense...instead it is powerful and meaningful...it is purposeful and visceral...and it is very impressive in its breadth and in its message. As we were leaving David gave me a gift - a book of work that he created in anticipation, during and after Sadat's visit to Israel. I am very excited to own this small book...and I feel honored to have had an opportunity to spend some time with a man of such strong vision and commitment. This was yet another gift that Yanek gave me during my visit...and perhaps one of the most memorable experiences of this entire trip.
Tartakover's work.
I am enclosing one of David's famous posters from a series called "STAIN". This one is a self portrait...but the series includes photos of many famous and infamous political figures whose portraits were partially obscured by a map of the West Bank in (blood) red - one of the many series of powerfully graphic, powerfully political works that he has created to build awareness for the state of affairs in Israel. For a view of David's work, please visit: http://www.tartakover.co.il/

Tel Aviv: Day 3 - Beach

Time to rest.
This has been quite a vacation so far. Still, with all the traveling, walking, shooting, drawing, writing, etc... we've had little time to just relax. So, we decided to take a couple of hours off from being tourists and we went to the beach to lay down and do nothing. Jake tried to make progress on "War and Peace"...and I did a couple of drawings, then took a little nap. It was just what the doctor ordered!!!

Tel Aviv: Day 2 - Jaffa

The approach to Jaffa.
As we got closer to the old section, we noticed that there are many streets under complete renovation. You get the sense that this is a warn-torn country...however the rubble is simply an indication that the city is working to clean up years of neglect and disrepair. Street are torn up and buildings are being torn down and restored...and what looks like a mess of a neighborhood now will probably be a bustling part of Tel Aviv in the future.
The old town center.
Jaffa is what you would expect from a middle eastern city. Old walls built with limestone and intricate streets with steps leading to multiple levels and many covered archways. It is quite picturesque - as I hope will come across through my amaterurish photography. Yet, it does not seem to have much soul...or people. The buildings house a collection of galleries and boutiques, mostly empty of customers or visitors. As we started to walk away and looked back, we could not help but think that the little town is quite beautiful....yet, the people of Tel Aviv seem very enamoured with building something new and creating a new history for themselves and have little time for the stuff that came before them.

Tel Aviv: Day 2 - On the way to Jaffa

Our walk to old Jaffa.
Jaffa (or Yaffo) is the oldest part of Tel Aviv...and consists of the city that existed before present day Tel Aviv was built. After our felafel lunch with Yanek, we set out to visit this section of town. For those of you who have been reading this blog it will seem like a familiar story...yet another afternoon of walking and sightseeing, but to us, every street and every corner we turn is a feast for our eyes and our senses...and yet another opportunity to see something we have nit seen before.
As we started our walk I took a picture of the mutli-angled and colorful little structures that, Yanek explained, are the lottery kiosks. From there, Yanek went back to work and we were on our own.
Take a left at Penis Street.
We walked through a section of town that seemed older...the streets were narrower and the buildings - more classical in style - were set close to each other. The nighborhood has several quaint restaurants, cafes and boutiques. It is quite nice and we may end up there for dinner tonight. We stopped to ask for directions, and we were told to take a left at Pines Street...however, apparently "Pines" is pronounced "Penis"...so I had the older man whom I asked for directions repeat it several times. Sorry, couldn't help myself.
New and old.
From there, we kept walking and came across a less picturesque part of town dotted with fashion wholesalers, discounters and repair shops of all types - housed in run down buildings with little architectural interest. Immediately behind it, however rose a skyscraper that far surpassed some of the newer buildings I had seen so far in Tel Aviv - giving me a renewed sense of hope for the architectural future of this city. I've enclosed a picture of this building.

Tel Aviv: Day 2 - Graffiti, etc.

Stuff on walls.
I like to take pictures of all sorts of stuff. I especially like capturing the texture of the places that I visit including graffiti, advertising, signage, etc. Here, I am sharing some of what Jake and I encountered in our walk from Fontef Studio to Jaffa - the older section of Tel Aviv that used to exist as its own city before Tel Aviv was built (only 100 years ago). Let me know what yo think of my collection of visual ephemera.

Tel Aviv: Day 2 - Fontef Studio

A visit to Fontef Studio.
After getting up early, keeping up with the blog, going to the local gym for a quick work out, and having a bit of breakfast...we headed out to visit Yanek at Fontef, his studio - which is located on Rotschild Boulevard and Allenby, in a building built in the 1940's. Per Yanek's suggestion we grabbed a "shuttle taxi" - which is an interesting concept. These small buses roam the streets on a specific route...and can be flagged down at any time...and for less than $2 per person they will stop at any point during the route and drop off and pick up. Basically, they are more convenient than buses and less expensive than taxis. A great idea that I am surprised has not been adopted by other cities.
Type talk.
Fontef consists of a spacious room that Yanek shares with Lahav Halevy...another talented designer with whom he occasionally collaborates. We spent a bit of time talking shop - much to the chagrin of poor Jake who perused a copy of the Jerusalem Bible, whle Yanek and I chatted about people we know - like Neville Brody, Eric Spiekerman and Tibor Kalman...and our love for fonts and design. It's nice to talk with someone who is not only passionate about their craft, but also very good at it. Yanek also shared some of his work...including a set of guidelines and identity extensions he created for Russian Standard (a vodka from Russia); and he showed us how he runs his typeface business online.
Yanek's smile.
Yanek is a very gentle person with an impish and infectious grin. His entire face lights up when he smiles...from his eyes to his dimples. Apparently his smile is now famous, as he was chosen for an ad that is running in the Tel Aviv newspaper. He showed it to us, and I took a snapshot of it...I get the feeling that there is a second career in the works here! :) Yanek smiles when he talks about type and design...and when he talks about Tel Aviv...a city that he loves and that he's very proud of. He likes to point out buildings and tell us stories about how they came to be, what makes them special, and how the fit in the short history of this city. And so, he took us up to his roof and pointed at stuff and told us about it.
Jake likes to eat.
All in all, it was a very fun way to spend an hour...(probably more for me than for Jake). However, we followed our chat with a nice lunch consisting of felafels we picked up at a local street joint and ate at on of the benches that sit under the shade of the trees that line Rotschild Boulevard...and at that point it was obvious that Jake was happy again. In all honesty, I had not realized how much Jake loves to eat. When he's off to Berkeley I will have to make it a point to take him and some of his friends out to dinner as often as I can.

Tel Aviv: Day 1 - Dinner with Yanek.

Meeting up with Yanek Iontef.
One of the highlights of our trip has been to meet up with Yanek Iontef. Yanek is a very talented designer living in Tel Aviv, with whom I've had the pleasure to work with on a recent assignment for a client in Japan. He was introduced to me by Dan Pulcrano, the publisher of Metro Magazine and founder of Boulevards.com, who has a keen eye for great typography...and who had hired Yanek to design covers for Metro Magazine. In fact, I think that Yanek is one of the most gifted type designers I've ever known. If you're interested check out his site:
www.fontef.com
I had not met Yanek in person, so I was excited to see what he looked like. As it turns out, he's like a slightly bulkier and younger version of me...including a pair of great glasses and a totally bald head. :)
Mr. Iontef is a very pleasant, polite and generous person...and he took us out for a delicious and extravagant dinner at a restaurant called Brasserie M&R, in the heart of Tel Aviv. He shared his background which included moving to Israel from Moldova...studying art and design...and inheriting his love for cooking from his mom.

He told us not to worry about anything while we're here, as we are "his responsibility"...and I think he's serious about it! He's even going to take us for a visit to Jerusalem, where he has offered to be our guide and show us the sights, and tell us about their relevance...which Jake and I are super excited about.

At the restaurant we ran into the fellow with whom he shares a studio...who also happens to be the designer who was responsible for the identity of Brasserie M&R...and another friend of theirs. I decided this was a photo opp...as here we were, four guys with a love for design and not a hair on our heads! Jake took the picture! What do you think...can you spot the real Alfredo?

Tel Aviv: Day 1 - More Beachfront

The beach looks inviting.
Jake and I did enjoy the walk...and you can see that the Israeli people and the tourists that flock to this city enjoy the beach. By the time we got to the beach, the shift - from "hanging out by the water" to "hanging out by the bar was just starting"....but it seemed poise to become a place where young people would enjoy a few drinks and showing off the tans they had worked hard to create during the day. We took a little break at one of the cafes on the sand...where I enjoyed a cold beer and a bit of a rest for my weary feet. Everyone here speaks English...but you can also hear multiple other languages being spoken. I am determined to take an afternoon off from all the sightseeing and simply lay down by the water and take a nice little nap...this is a "vacation" after all!!!

Tel Aviv: Day 1 - The beachfront

A walk by the beach.
We took a little walk down the beach from our hotel....from Jerusalem Beach to Gordon Beach. The first thing we noticed was the humidity. As opposed to Istanbul, Tel Aviv is very muggy. The humidity is palpable...and you can feel it on your skin and your lungs.

The second thing I noticed was the architecture. No offense, but many of what seem like newer buildings are trying a bit too hard (in my humble - and rather uneducated - architecture fan's opinion). These tall buildings with multi-faceted sides and convoluted geometric volumes are not going to win anyone a Pritzker Architecture Prize. I hope that this will evolve...as it would be a shame for this beautiful beachfront to get visually polluted with unsightly buildings that already look dated. I'm attaching a few examples of the stuff that I saw...that I didn't really like. The only building that I thought was cool was a modernist building that sports a colorful facade that shifts gradually from blues to yellows and creates a pleasant rhythmic pace that contrasts nicely with the wavy sidewalk pattern that is reminiscent of waves and sand. In my opinion, a much more refined sense of style...and (literally) a bright spot on the beach.

Tel Aviv: Here we are!

Arriving in Tel Aviv.
We landed in Ben Gurion airport after a fairly quick flight from Istanbul (Apprx. 2 hrs). The plane was half-full with the Turkish Beach Volleyball team coming into Tel Aviv for a tournament. The guys on the team were like kids and could not sit still or stop playing jokes on each other. They were actually quite funny to watch. The security line was quite long, but moved along speedily and our bags were waiting for us when we were done with the formalities.

Ben Gurion Airport
The airport in Tel Aviv is a spacious place filled with lots of light. The building is built with Jerusalem stone...which we understand is a rather cheap building material, but very nice in appearance. The airport looked like a museum of modern art...except that the art we saw was not all that impressive. Especially the statue of Ben Gurion - which was given a raher large head and hair that looks like wings (perhaps, we mused, that's why they named the airport after him?). There was no one to meet us here, so we took a cab to our hotel...which is located by the beach, and around the corner from the American Embassy...a greyish box of a building that looks not very impressive and somehow foreboding, BTW.

Istanbul: Day 4 - The last night.

Our last night in Istanbul.
Both of us really liked Istanbul...but, other than the first night here, we had not been able to stay up very late. In fact, a couple of times we headed home around 7:00 for a quick "nap" ...and never made it out again. So, on our last night we were determined to stay up and check out the city after dusk.
The night markets.
We walked the streets and noticed that around the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, business is still brisk in the waning hours of the day. Souvenir and rug shops keep their doors open, trying to seduce tourists into purchasing some of their wares. We walked on...and are very proud to say that we left Turkey without buying a rug. Not an easy feat for me, but I did accomplish it.
The show at the Blue Mosque.
We walked around the Blue Mosque and into its courtyard. Outside the loudspeakers were blaring something in French (it sounded good, as the French language can, sometimes, be pleasant to the ear)....and the lights of the Mosque were being dimmed and brightened to the cadence of the reading and the music that accompanied it. The Blue Mosque looked absolutely incredible...and you kind-a expected Aladdin to cruise by on his flying carpet.
We also wandered inside the courtyard...which was also lit and created a beautiful setting for a night promenade - and many groups (families and friends) were walking inside holding low volume conversation.
The Sufi dancer.
Finally, we went over to the cafe that sits at the side of the Mosque...lured by the sound of Sufi music. That's where we ordered the all-too-delicious Turkish Viagra...and I (not Jake) enjoyed a smoke of the water pipe while we listened to the sound from the ancient instruments and watched a dancer, his white costume floating around him as he twirled in place...seemingly in a trance.
It was truly a magical evening...and an epic way to end our stay in the magnificent city of Istanbul.

Istanbul: Day 4 - Food.

Turkish food rocks.
I know. I will probably be stopped at the Rome Airport and my nationality will be put in question for saying this...but the Turkish food is really, really good. Some people don't think that we eat when we travel...well, let me tell you...that has not been the case. Today we ate like Sultans.
Lunch:
We had lunch at the Spice Market...a simple sandwich from a street corner shop ended up being one of the best sandwiches either of us had ever devoured in about 30 seconds flat. We enjoyed them in a subterranean room about the size of a closet - although they tried to disguise the tight quarters by lining the room with mirrors...but to no avail, the place was tiny. However, the food was AWESOME. From there we indulged in a little Turkish Baklava...which we ate at another corner eatery, this time on the second floor. We sat by a window and enjoyed our delicacies while watching the chaos below. Cable cars, automobiles, buses, bicycles, carts, motorcycles, pedestrians, cats, etc....all going in different directions at the same time...and each making its own sound from screaming to honking.
Dinner:
Dinner was had at one of many little neighborhood restaurants set up on the sidewalk of a small alleyway. The food was simply amazing. It was fresh and delicious...and we ate absolutely everything that was brought to us. And the waiter kept bringing stuff for us to try...a side of eggplant with tomatoes and garlic was to die for...and for dessert he brought some more Turkish dessert with almonds and pinenuts (after we already had ordered more Turkish baklava and rice pudding). Everything he served us was on the house...including some apple tea to wash it down with.
More Dessert!
And we were not done. Later at a cafe, we ordered Turkish Viagra...which consists of sliced bananas, milk and crushed pistachios. Mind you, I don't even like dessert...but I did like the idea of trying a dessert called Viagra!!!

Istanbul: Day 4 - Random observations.

Random sightings and observations.
Now that we've walked across town countless times, we've started to notice some patterns and other stuff. So, we thought we'd share it with you. We probably will keep sharing stuff like this with you, so please bear with us. The captions will serve as an explanation to why the photos are in this blog. Feel free to comment, explain...or just plain disagree.

Istanbul: Day 4 - Beards

Travel beards....should we keep them?
We have not been gone that long, but the trip is already showing in our faces. In the form of new growth...as in hairy stuff...beards, that is. Both Jake and I have given up on shaving...at least for now, and have grown quite irsute over the last week. As we make progress, I think we may keep you all updated on our facial developments. Let us know what you think about Jake's question....should he shave?

Istanbul: Day 4 - Shooting.

Shooting by the Acqueduct.
As we tried to find our way to the Sultanhmet Mosque we ran into the Roman Acqueduct that once brought water to the city. There we found an old man sitting under an umbrella. He had set up a makeshift shooting gallery with the Acqueduct walls as his backdrop and a few cans and bottles as the targets. So...once we heard the shots and saw the guns, we could not stop from going over and see if we could give it a shot (sorry for the pun). Jake - as it happens - is quite the marksman...and he tried his hand at the rifle and the pistol, with equal success. I had a couple of lucky shots myself...and so we left, feeling energized and manly. It's weird how two guys that don't approve of war or shooting animals still can't help but enjoy shooting guns.
:)

Istanbul: Day 4 - The other side.

The other side of town.
After walking through the Palace...we went for a walk on the other side of town...just for a reality check. We found that some of the buildings are in such a state of disrepair that it is simply amazing that people live in them...and that they don't just crumble. The poverty of many of the people in Istanbul is quite evident...however, we also found that the people are just as friendly and seemingly happy as they are in the richer areas. They are a busy lot, working their shops, carrying loads of stuff from here to there...and - just like everyone else - sitting down for a little tea and an occasional game of backgammon. We're including some of the photos we took as we wandered off the tourist map.

Istanbul: Day 4 - Topkapi Palace.

The Palace and the Harem.
On our last day in Istanbul we decided to visit Topkapi Palace - which was where the Sultans lived during the Ottoman Empire...and boy, did those guys know how to live! First of all, you got to hand it to the Turks for having Harems in their Palaces. The Ottoman Muslims had a lot of rules...but then again, they also knew how to relax! Secondly (besides the enviable lifestyle) the architecture and interiors are magnificent...with every area more spectacular, more opulent and richer in patterns and details than the one before it. The view from the balconies is also pretty amazing...overlooking the water and the city's skyline all around. We spent about two hours wandering around the grounds...and then we got tired of seeing so much beautiful stuff...and we went for a walk on the other side of town, to purchase a bit of Turkish Delight to bring back home (Stacy is pretty fond of the stuff...and we thought she'd like some straight from Istanbul's Spice Market).

WaterPipe Video

I finally figured out how to post a video.
So...here is the one I made of Jake and his first experience with a water pipe. We sat at this cool little cafe in an alley near the Spice Market and we indulged ourselves in some of the local traditions. It was a first for Jake, so I thought I'd capture it on video.

Istanbul: Day 3 - The Tattoo Cafe

The Tattoo Cafe.
No...this is not what you think. I mean...well...after the Turkish bath experience, it seems natural that we might decide to get some tattoos...but that's not what happened. Instead, feeling rather exhausted (instead of refreshed) we headed towards town in search of a cafe where we could sit a spell...drink some tea...read and draw. And so, we did. We found a small cafe in an alley, and sat down on the floor amongst pillows and rugs at a low table with a water pipe. We ordered a beer and some hummus and proceeded to make ourselves comfortable. jake pulled out "War and Peace" and I pulled out my sketching stuff and started drawing. Soon, the waiter came over and said he liked the drawing I was doing and almost immediately asked me if I would draw something on him. Weird, eh? This is something that I do occasionally...but rarely I am asked to do it on someone I don't even know....totally out of the blue.

So I agreed and drew a snake on a dagger...as that's what Muslim, the young waiter had asked me to do. Well...I added the dagger part. Next thing you know, there is a line of waiters asking for me to draw something on them...one of them wanted his name on his arm (Ozturk) ...the other left it up to me (so I gave him a classic heart with the word "MOM" on a scroll)...and the youngest one of all (Agit) asked me to write his name on his arm also. This was the highlight of the day. Jake engaged Muslim in conversation...and the young man soon disclosed that he was in love with a girl from Latvia...but she had left to go to work in London and they had corresponded for a year on the internet, but now he had not heard from her in a while and seemed quite broken hearted. Apparently they had only spent two days together in Turkey...but they had kissed and hugged...and he fell hard for her. It was a lovely story...and we felt lucky to have met these people...who seemed so nice and innocent and genuine (much unlike the Kurd from the other side of town).

Istanbul: Day 3 - Asia Side

Kadikoy.
Today we ventured across the water in a ferryboat to Kadikoy, on the Asia side. Jake was excited to set foot on the Asian continent for his first time. We walked from our hotel along the water to the dock...bought a token (for about 75 cents) and boarded the ferry. 15-20 minutes later we were in Kadikoy. Along the way we were treated to a spectacular view of the sprawling city and its skyline, which is marked with numerous minarets and domes.

Meeting Komache.
Kadikoy was not as cool as the Historic Peninsula...but we enjoyed a walk through a market selling fresh fish...then we sat at a restaurant an ordered a helping of sardines as an appetizer, and we both had seabass for lunch. There, we were accosted by a man whose name was Komache (or something like that). He didn't strike us as genuine. He introduced himself as a Kurd and the he some tall tales about living in Italy and Germany...and serving in the military. He showed us pictures of his kids and introduced us to the "boss" of the area...also a Kurd. We got the sense that the people at the restaurant did not take him seriously...and he seemed to be exaggerating everything. I tried a glass of Raki with him (which is much like Greek Ouzo)...and was way to strong a drink in which to indulge in the middle of the day. So...we were happy to say goodbye to our new "friend" and we wandered off to explore Kadikoy.

The demonstration.
This area of Istanbul is clearly less touristy...probably because it lacks in the rich historical sights of the other peninsula. Instead, there is a smattering of stores selling cheaply made clothing and neo-punk fashions that you can get in the States. We decided to wander off towards the water...and we ran into a demonstration with lots of people waving Turkish flags...wearing white and listening to someone blaring a speech that could be heard over the crowds through loud speakers. Police in riot gear dotted the areas around the demonstration...and makeshift cyclone fences with the word "POLIS" on them surrounded the demonstrators. Jake was a bit nervous about it...thinking that it may be an anti-American thing..but I asked a policeman, and he explained that it was a rally against a development in the Eastern part of Turkey, were a dam was being planned that would disrupt the natural environment. I get the feeling that after Jake goes to Berkeley he'll be quite used to this type of thing. Growing up in Rome I've seen my share of demonstrations and I don't find them terribly worrysome. Maybe I should...but I don't think anything serious will ever happen.

Back to the Peninsula.
We decided to hop a ferry and head back to the Peninsula and take a break at the park we had visited yesterday. So we did. Being that it was Sunday, the park was very crowded...but still quite pleasant. We sat on the grass, looked up at the trees and the birds...and enjoyed watching the procession of people who strolled in the shade and sat amongst the trees. I made some short films holding my camera and walking through the crowds...and Jake kept walking in front of me exhibiting a variety of silly walks (a la Monthy Python).

The Cagaloglou Turkish Baths.
Tiring of laying on the grass, we decided to walk up the hill in search of a new activity. So, I dragged Jake to the Turkish baths. This was something that I had wanted to do...but Jake was not convinced that it was such a good idea. So...we entered the baths and I signed up for a full (assisted) bath and massage...and Jake selected the self-service version. After paying the fees, we were shown a small changing room for each of us, where we took our clothes off and wrapped our bodies into a plaid scarf of sorts. We were given some rather uncomfortable wooden sandles...and we were told to go through a small door.

The small door opened up to a large circular room covered in marble and surrounded by columns. The room was steamy and at first it was hard to see...but as soon as your eyes adjusted, you could see that light poured in from small circular windows cut out from the large dome that served as the ceiling. In the room there were only men...all wearing the same thing we were. Some of them were laying down on a raised area in the middle of the room, being loudly massaged by mostly quite large Turkish men. Others sat on a step that went around the room...by water fountains ...and they were being thoroughly washed by the same large Turkish men.

I must admit that at first I thought that perhaps Jake was right in being apprehensive.

I spotted Jake in a corner, sitting on the marble step by one of the fountains...occasionally throwing water on himself. I sat next to him...but soon he started to throw cold water on me. So, I was glad that a big overweight Turk motioned that I should get my skinny ass on the marble counter. There he proceeded to "massage" me...which included bending my legs over my chest, then using his entire weight to stretch me. It was...interesting...and I could not help but laugh out loud. After he was done torturing me he proceeded to wash my entire body with soab, then he scrubbed me hard...and showed me how much of my skin was coming off. I must admit that I did feel cleaner.

After all this, Jake and I sat in the hot room for a while and chatted there with a couple of nice guys from Holland. One of them worked for Kodak....and was heading to the States soon for a 3 week vacation with his family. he made it a point to say that the US was very affordable these days. (Thanks, Mr. Bush!).

At the end of the bath, we changed back into our clothes...and on the way out I asked whether it was OK to take a picture, and they told me yes...so I approached our new Dutch friends, and engaged them in a "Kodak moment". :)

Istanbul: Day 2 - Gulhane Park

Gulhane Park.
After walking back across the bridge we went to Gulhane Park for a change of pace and scenery. The park is a beautiful, calm and cool oasis in the middle of frenetic activity. The sycamore trees provide great shading and many families sit on the grass enjoying their Saturday afternoon picnics. Also...Jake dubbed one of the walking paths "Couples Alley" - since every bench showcased a couple in a vast array of embraces. Although the women are covered up...I guess it's still OK to do some old-fashioned cuddling in public (at least at the park). We sat on teh grass for a while...then we headed home - where we proceeded to pass out early. I woke up at around 9:30...Jake was passed out on the floor, with "War and Peace" by his side. We both decided that a little sleep was better than food...and we didn't wake up until 5:30 this morning.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Galata Tower Cafe

Galata Tower Cafe.
After descending the tower we decide to take a little break and have a tea at a nearby cafe. We found this very cool little spot, where we sat for a while. I sketched and Jake read "War and Peace"...until some Turkish guy with aloud and obnoxious voice sat nearby making it impossible to concentrate on anything but his machine-gun-like delivery.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Galata Tower

Galata Tower.
After crossing the bridge and having lunch by the sea, we walked over to Galata Tower. The tower was built hundreds of years ago...as a military viewing tower and as a way to spot potential fires. Ironically, the tower itself caught fire a few times, so it has undergone a seres of rather sad renovations. Today it houses a bar/restaurant and a night club...but we went up to see the view...which is quite impressive. From the top you can see all around and you realize what a big place Istanbul is. I spotted a very cool rooftop...that looks like may be on its way to be a modern bar (picture). Also...we learned that sometimes in 16-something a fellow strapped n some wings and jumped off the tower...flying all the way to the Bosphorous (about 6 miles away). I wonder if anyone told the Wright Brothers 'bout that! Apparently his feat made him too dangerous and the Sultan decided to put him in jail. Oh, well.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Wandering Across the Bridge

Over the bridge.
As we walked over the bridge we caught a nice view of two sides of Istanbul: The Historic Peninsula on one side, and the Beyoglu District on the other. Above are a couple of pictures: One of them is looking back at one of the many Mosques...this one with its minarets covered in scaffolding. The other is towards the Beyoglu District...towards Galata Tower - which was our destination. We stood on the bridge's lower floor and watched the many different ferries and boats that seem to barely make it under the bridge span. In this photo we captured a tugboat adding a splash of red to the landscape.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Lunch

Lunch: Shrimp anyone?
Mid-morning we decided to venture across the bridge spanning over the Golden Horn and visit the Beyoglu District. We had lunch by the water...the shrimp were not much to write home about, but they did look quite adorable just staring at me.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Turkish Fashion

Check this out!
Again, we walked across the Historic Peninsula from the Cistern to the Spice Market. Along the way we checked out some of the latest fashions. Above are some snapshots, which include: A window displaying the latest in Turkish shoes for women; mannequins featuring what many women seem to wear out here (notice how the bald mannequins are staring at the one with the wig); we caught glimpse of a very dapper young Turk wearing a cape and carrying a scepter (you don't see that all to often in the US); and an older Turk from whom I purchased a delicious glass of apple tea.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Part 2

The Cistern
After exiting the Hagia Sophia, Jake suggested we see the cisterns...and so we did. They're just a few steps away...and a completely different experience. Once you pay to get in, you descend a few floors and the first thing you notice is the difference in temperature...which drops about 10-20 degrees. There are 336 pillars holding up the roof of the cistern...and most of them are illuminated with colored uplights...making for a beautiful sight. At the end of the building are two unusual columns...featuring the heads of Medusas (at the base of the columns..not the top, which means they must have been submerged in water all the time). One of them is upside down, and the other is sideways. Very weird..but very cool.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Part 1

The Hagia Sophia
The Hagia Sophia started out as a church...then was turned into a mosque..but now it is a museum...although we did not see any artifacts other than the building itself. And, what a building. The space is absolutely enormous...featuring 107 support pillars for a gigantic dome.
We got there around 10:00...and there were literally busloads of tourists waiting to get in - yet the line moved speedily and we were inside in no time at all. I've been in plenty of impressive buildings...but there is something quite special about the Hagia Sophia. Perhaps it is that it feels a bit raw and unpretentious (as opposed to something like St. Peter's Cathedral in Rome that is designed to be opulent). You can certainly feel that it has seen a lot of history...and it has endured a lot of changes. The light pouring inside through the large windows has a special quality to it. The mosaics are very beautiful...but the building itself steals the show. Jake and I also liked the large round decorations with Arabic writing on them...obviously something added on when it was converted into a mosque.

Istanbul: Day 1 - Part 3

Dinner and the European Cup.
After the nap (which lasted much longer than anticipated, but was enjoyed by all)...we got dressed for dinner and walked off in search of a restaurant where we could have a decent meal and watch the Turkey/Croatia match. Jake selected the place...a estaurant he had spotted earlier in the day...and we got a table with a clear view of the game. The food was OK...but the bread was awesome...and the game a lot of fun to watch.

Turkey wins!!!!
After dinner we took a little walk, looking for a new place to watch the rest of the game..and we ended up on the crowded street near our hotel that is lined with restaurants and bars. Every other person was wearing a red shirt with the Turkish half-moon and star...but the game seemed to advance towards its end without any goals. Turkey seemed to be losing steam...and finally at the very end of the game, Croatia pulled off a goal. The Turks were clearly disappointed...but with literally a few seconds left they scored their own goal...making it an even match. The crowds went crazy..and it reminded us of being in Rome for the World cUp when Italy defeated France to win the championship.

Next...there was a penalty kick shoot out...and Turkey scored 4 goals to only 1 for Croatia. At that point, fireworks were set off...people started chanting and dancing in the streets...and cars blared their horns in celebration as they cruised the city's narrow streets.

It was very exciting and a splendid way to end the night. We retired to our hotel after a walk by the sea to check out the moonlight...and I went to work on the blog...and Jake read...until we finally went to sleep around 2:00am.

Photos from Istanbul.

Istanbul: Day 1 - Part 2

The Arasta Bazaar
After our visit with Mehmet the rug seller, we wandered off through the market at the foot of the Blue Mosque. I believe it is called the Arasta Bazaar. We got there early, and the shopkeepers were just setting up. I really like being places at the beginning of the day...and watching all the preparation activities. Like most places in Istanbul, rugs were everywhere...as well as ceramics, tiles, waterpipes and leather goods. I bought a pin with the Turkish moon and star (from their flag).

The Tombs of the Sultans
Next, we started walking towards the Grand Bazaar...but on the way we stopped in a small cafe behind a cemetery where they keep the tombs of several sultans, their wifes and friends. At the cafe we had a "chiai" or "tea"...and we sat there for a few minutes enjoying the break. Cemeteries always make for great atmosphere. After the tea, we walked around the cemetery...and I enjoyed seeing the carvings on the tombstones - then we visited the mausoleum. The building had a round floorplan, with magnificent light pouring through the windows that went all around.

The Grand Bazaar
After our break we continued towards the Grand Bazaar...and we wandered in. The place is a gigantic mall with all sorts of vendors aggressively selling their wares. I can't count the times I was asked "Want to buy a Turkish rug?". We ended up purchasing some Middle Eastern-style slippers for Gavin (Jake's little brother...who really likes shoes). The building is spectacular...with long corridors and vaulted ceilings and lots of archways decorated in tile. But the spectacle is the crowds and the colorful stuff that is all around you. After a short while we were quite over-stimulated and found a way out.

The Turkish Markets
To our surprise we ended up walking out onto the kind of trade market I have spent quite a bit of time in Hong Kong. There were no tourists in this side of town...but all sorts of wholesale stores selling buttons, mannequins, buckles...and lots and lots of "evil eyes". This was a lot more fun than the Grand Bazaar. No one tried to sell us anything...and we enjoyed wandering the crowded streets decorated with many large Turkish flags flying overhead...a symbol of national pride as well as a practical way to create shade and shelter the crowds from the hot mid-day sun. We sat outside a little eatery and shared a Turkish Pizza...and watched the people shopping, selling, and strolling along. I wandered into a shop and almost bought a prayer rug...but I still think it's to early on our trip to be lugging about more heavy stuff.

The Spice Market
Quite by accident we made our way to the Spice Market...or Egyptian Market. The atmosphere of this place is similar to the Grand Bazzar...although a lot smaller and mostly focused on food items. We saw fish, meat, cheeses, caviar, and all sorts of spices. Of course, we sampled a few tastings of Turkish Delight...(Jake took such a liking to the sweets that I have a feeling that he will probably minor in Turkish Delight at Berkeley).

The WaterPipe Cafe
On our way back towards the hotel we stopped at a cafe and sampled the water pipe. I wrote about this in a previous entry...and I tried in vain to include a short movie, but I finally gave up. I also tried posting it to YouTube, but found out that YouTube is a banned site in Turkey!!! So...after a few hits of the pipe we wandered off with the smell of apple tobacco in our nostrils and headed back to the hotel for a much needed nap.

Istanbul: Day 1-WaterPipe

Smoking in Istanbul.
Today Jake and I took a break from all the walking in a nice side street cafe. We sat amongst the pillows and rugs, and enjoyed a beer, a bit of water pipe....and the prayers that were being broadcast from the nearby minaret.

It was the first experience of its kind for Jake...and something I had not done since my days in Egypt.

Istanbul: Day 1 - Part 1

Discovering the Blue Mosque and Mehmet's Rug Shop.
We had breakfast at the hotel and took a walk in the section behind us...which is called the Historical Peninsula. We wandered towards the Blue Mosque and immediately we were met by another friendly local who escorted us through the Mosque and shared some of his knowledge about the history...and pointed out all the stuff that the Sultan's wife had the Sultan do. We agreed that the Sultan's wife was a very high-maintenance girl. At the end of the tour we walked over to his rug shop. There are hundreds of rugs shops in this section of town....and each of them has people walking the streets luring tourists and bringing them back to sip a cup of tea...and (hopefully) buy a rug.

At the rug shop he left us with his cousin...Mehmet who offered us tea, told us about rugs and showed us a few very nice rugs. I told him that we didn't really need a rug, to which he replied "no one NEEDS a rug. However no one leaves Turkey without one". Perhaps he's right...but we didn't purchase one....yet. After a little conversation, we finished our tea, said goodbye...and proceeded to explore other parts of Istanbul.

Traveling to Istanbul
We landed in Istanbul very tired. Jake passed out when we got on the plane and stayed that way throughout the flight. I tried to sleep in vain...and tossed uncomfortably in my seat until I started to hallucinate. At the airport we went through passport control and I learned that Italians are exonerated from having to pay for a Turkish visa...but not Americans. So, Jake got stopped and we went back to the visa office and bought him one. He was a bit confused by all this...but now he knows and we'll be able to manage it better next time.

On the way to the hotel
We were met at the airport by a car, and we were driven to the hotel. The road runs along the water and there are many sections with green parks along the way. Many families sat on the grass, enjoying picnics and tossing a soccer ball. The women cover their heads with veils, but not their faces...and most of the men wear Western style clothing...although a few also wear traditional middle eastern jalabeias.

The Kalyon Hotel
The Kalyon Hotel sits on the water, and it is clean and modern. And, we were happy to find out that it is located just a few steps away from some of Istanbul's major attractions.
After a short nap we walked behind the hotel and enjoyed seeing the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque at night. The streets in the ancient section of the city were lined with restaurants filled with tourists loudly watching the Portugal/Germany soccer game.

Nurettin and Dinner
As it often happens in these countries, we were stopped along our walk by a man who wanted to be our guide. His name is Nurettin and we ended up following him to a restaurant overlooking the ancient quarters and we shared a meal that included Turkish Kebab, Bread and Humus and a delicious Turkish Baklava. I also drank some Turkish coffee. We were at first apprehensive about Nurettin's intentions...but we were happy that he turned out to be a nice man who did not ask us for anything. I am sure that he will get some small commission from the restaurant...but that was well worth it as the food was very good and not very expensive.
After dinner we walked back to the hotel and sat for a few minutes enjoying the moonlight reflecting on the water.

Reading Range

You learn a lot about people when you travel with them. One of the things I learned about Jake is that he has a very broad range in terms of his reading preferences. It's not often that someone reads "War and Peace" one moment, then picks up "What's your poo telling you?".

We're off!

I kissed Isabella goodbye. Lugged my 300lb bag into the car and Stacy gave us a ride to the airport this morning. And so it starts...our big adventure.

At the airport I transferred a few heavy items...drawing paper, journals, misc. chargers and my favorite new book - "Arabic for Idiots" into Jake's bag in order to avoid paying the fee for extra-heavy luggage. Proving from the offset that Jake is much better prepared for this trip than I am.

At the SJ airport we ran into Steve Behrens...on his way to Orange County.

The flight to Chicago was unenventful...except for the fact that we both got some sleep.

Now we're waiting to catch the flight to Rome...which is overbooked!!!