Cairo 7

A day in Khan El-Kalili
The Cairo Bazaar, known as Khan El-Kalili is quite an experience. We were dropped off at one of its gates by one of the ubiquitous black and white taxis that crowd the Caire streets and seem to aim for any pedestrian brave enough to try and cross to the other side of any road.

The market is made up of thousands of stalls and shops, one on top of the other in a neighborhood that dates back to medieval times and is defined by narrow alleyways, crumbling buildings and beautiful mosques. The folks that crowd the streets represent slices of every nation and every culture known to man....and the vendors usually approach passers-by by asking "Where you from?". Mike started saying that he was from Bulgaria...and most of the vendors would reply as they would have if he had said New York: "Bulgaria? Beautiful country. Nice people. Welcome to my country. I have what you're looking for!"

We walked around for a while, taking it all in...overwhelmed by the amount of goods that were being sold everywhere, and ranged from plastic pyramids to jewelry...from waterpipes and inlaid boxes to fabrics....and t-shirts, galabeyas, dresses, scarves, sandals, hats, etc. etc. etc. And at the same time as our senses were being attacked by the copious amount of colors, textures, smells, and sounds..we also had to fend off the constant invitations to "buy something cheap"...or "just come in and look".

Alfredo gets a close shave.
We took lots of pictures...talked with many Egyptians...bargained for fabrics and other small gifts. While Mike was checking out yet another inlaid box "factory", I wandered into a barbershop next door and got myself as proper haircut and shave. We were the only Westerners in the tiny establishments and the fellows that were there seem quite amused. Chris befriended the barber's young son and taught him to use his camera...and the kid turned out to be a naural shooter. In the meanwhile I enjoyed a few minutes sitting down and having my bangs trimmed and my chin cleaned up. Jacob was tempted...but vowed to keep his beard until we return to the US...so he passed.

Cairo 6

El-Fishawy in Khan El-Kalili
Khan El-Kalili is Cairo's great bazaar - a bustling place with a thousand winding little streets filled with vendors hawking all types of merchandise. Among this veritable chaos, in a narrow alleyway behind Midan Hussein is a small café that is considered the oldest one in the area: El Fishawy.
El -Fishawy became our meeting place, and we spent a few memorable hours enjoying a glass of cold and delicious lemonade...a hot chiai...a little turkish coffee...and of course, the ubiquitous "shisha" (waterpipe). The time spent at El Fishawy was magical. The place exudes great atmosphere...and you can feel the weight of the thousands of travelers who have stopped in this Cairo landmark to rest their weary feet. Of course, all sort of street vendors would come by constantly trying to sell us wallets, visors, watches, or bracelets...each with a different approach, and a different line. At one of our last stops there, Chris ended up buying a couple of watches - after some hard negotiating. The rest of us resisted temptation but enjoyed the general haggling and negotiating. By the way, my favorite line was: "How can I take your money?"

Cairo 5

In search of the perfect sandwich.
Jake has developed quite a sophisticated level of expertise when it comes to street sandwiches...so, while in Cairo - a city with an abundance of street vendors, Jake set upon his quest for the absolutely perfect street-side sandwich. After a few different tastings...he was advised to try a particular spot by two Egyptian businessmen that wanted to help him achieve his objective. His taste buds tingling with excitement he took a bite of the lamb filled delicacy...and immediately he awarded the Grand Prize to a delighted young man by the name of Lil' Mohammed. The rest is history...and we expect that after Jake's reviews, Lil' Mohammed's Famous Cairo Sandwich Shop will be overrun by locals and tourists alike. Lil' Mohammed was extremely appreciative of the award, and moved nearly to tears. At the end - he agreed to take a picture with Jake....and we're happy to report it on our blog!

Cairo 4

The Mena House.
No trip to Giza should go without a stop at the Mena House. This venerable hotel has been the host of many great visitors - from artists to heads of state. We lived here for a few weeks when we first arrived to Egypt...while my father found a house for us in Alexandria. My brother Alex and I played many a tennis game on the clay courts in the back...with a clear view of the Pyramids as a backdrop. So...I dragged everyone there for a drink after our tour of the pyramids.

Shopping and soccer.
The walk was a bit longer than I remember because today they have built a huge wall around the pyramids, and the gate where we entered and exited is a few blocks away. On the way to the hotel, Mike and I stopped and bought a couple of presents for friends and family...and Mike (as usual) ended up taking photos of himself with the folks that were in the store....a nice Egyptian woman and her four daughters. Outside, Jake sat waiting - while Chris was engaged in a game of pick up soccer (in which he performed quite impressively against the neighborhood's kids).

The International Belly Dancing Competition.
When we finally made it to the Mena House's bar, we were delighted to find out that this was the location for the finals of the International Belly Dancing Competition. Mike immediately disappeared..but was quickly spotted with the representative of the Venezuelan federation...trying to see if she was part of a family business. Mike is indefatigable when it comes to work! Chris decided to join him and they chatted in Spanish with the young ladies, who then obligingly posed with them for a couple of shots. We tried to talk our way in...but we were not dressed for the occasion and the cover fee was extraordinarily high...so we decided to skip the competition - but we promised we'll catch it next time we're in Cairo!!!

Cairo 3

The Egyptian Museum
Chris, Mike's son, flew in from New York late on the second night that we were in Cairo around 2:00am...just as we were getting home from a long night out. The next morning he was up and about early, so we went to the Egyptian Museum. Chris and I went to the same museum I had visited 30 years ago as a student...and was a little surprised to see that it had not changed at all. In fact, there were artifacts seemingly tossed in corners of the rooms...with crates strewn about in the middle of the exhibit floors. The signage that identifies the artifacts was probably produced before my last visit to the museum...it was just as I remembered...sheets of paper typed on a typewriter and taped to the glass cabinets. Signs everywhere said "No Flash Photography"...so I started taking some reference shots without flash - after a few photos I was approached by security who asked me to erase the photos from my camera...and stood there while this happened. Obviously the rules have changed...but not the signs.

The Pyramids at Giza
On our way back to the hotel we walked across the bridge that spans over the Nile and met up with Mike and Jake who were anxious to visit the ancient Pyramids. So, we hopped in a cab and headed towards Giza.

We were dropped off at a side gate...in front of one of the many establishments that offer horses and camels. Each of them assures you that they are the best deal in town...and not to trust anyone else. We spoke to a couple of different operators and got quotes that ranged from 70LE per hour to 120LE per hour. By the time we got there, it was around 4:30 and the Pyramids close at 6:00...so we opted to purchase our entry tickets and take a walk around them.

At first we were greeted by the Sphynx...which is not as large as it appears on most pictures...but it is still a sizable monument. Behind it the three large pyramids of Giza stood tall, as they have for millenia. These monuments to humanity and past civilizations are a truly remarkable experience...and I was glad to share it with Jake, Michael and Chris.

The camel pictures.
As it always happens, there were many vendors aggressively hawking water, postcards, and souvenirs...as well as pictures with camels. Chris and I walked up to catch up with Jake who was ahead of us, and we noticed that Jake was standing by a camel and getting fitted with a turban by one of the locals. The man invited Jake to saddle up on the camel...which Jake did while the camel emitted the kind of guttural sounds that only camels can do. As the camel got up, Jake held on to the saddle...and I captured the episode on film. After that, it was Chris's turn...then mine. At the end, the man asked for "bakshish"..and when we gave him 20LE he grabbed Jake and said that he had told him 20LE per person. People are much more aggressive and more physical in the Middle East than we are used to...so Chris and I stepped in and told the man that 20LE is all he was getting and we walked away. At the same time another man on a camel....who might have been a member of the tourist police approached us and told the man to back off...which he did...and we shook hands and walked away.

This type of confrontation is quite typical in Egypt...and for us westerners that are not used to it, the reaction can range from annoying to intimidating....but as we got more used to the general approach, we learned to dismiss it as just a part of the experience.

Cairo 2

The Sufi and Dervish Show at Khan El-Kalili
Michael's new Cairo "buddy" - Mohammed - told Mike about a dance show that was taking place this evening near a mosque at Khan El-Kalili (Cairo's biggest bazaar). So...we went. We told Mike we had already experienced a Sufi show in Istanbul...but we were in for a surprise!
First of all the setting was absolutely breathtaking. The stage was located at one end of a medieval courtyard of a three story building built in typical Islamic style. Some of the musicians played from the balconies on the second floor, while the dancers performed below them - accompanied by other musicians at stage level. The dramatically lit building would have stolen the show...hadn't the show been such a formidable spectacle.

The show consisted of a series of skits featuring drummers and pipe players creating hypnotic sounds while dancers in elaborate costumes performed to the music. The dancers twirl...and twirl...and twirl...and they do this for what seems like 1/2hour without ever stopping. I would certainly throw up...or at least fall over. While they do this they also perform all sorts of other feats - from taking off layers of their colorful skirts and twirling them as they twirl themselves...to unfolding flags and waving them for the crowds - and then folding them back up into a neat little package....while never-ever stopping their twirling. It's hard to describe...but the sound and the motion and the color and the setting all made for an unforgettable experience. By focusing on the twirlers it seemed that one could easily fall into a trance-like state.

After the show we walked outside and took pictures with some of the performers. I particularly liked the Sufi singer who chanted in Arabic and sounded similar to the prayers that one hears during praying tine at the Mosques.

Cairo 1

Cairo: Sofitel El Gezirah
Our hotel in Cairo is an absolutely luxurious place....a building situated at the tip of an island in the middle of the Nile that is lavishly decorated and features the latest amenities. What a place!

Shukran, Alessandro!
At this point I should thank my brother, Alessandro (Alex) who has made all the arrangements for us on this trip...from hotel to airlines - with cars picking us up and driving us from Alexandria to Cairo and back. Alex was supposed to join us on this trip...and we're sad he could not make it because we know he would have added a lot of color to our adventures. He called us all the time...just to make sure we were OK - which was very nice. So...in case anyone is interested in traveling to Europe, I would highly recommend that you drop him a note: tsp.gesi@tiscali.it

The Nile River
The views from the hotel are absolutely spectacular. From our room we can see several of the bridges that cross the Nile, and the busy Cairo skyline dotted with tall buildings and many, many mosques. At night the view is even better...with the city lit up from one end to the other. And, at street level, one can walk outside and watch the Nile flow by. There's something magic about rivers...and in the case of the Nile, it is simply amazing...especially if you stop to think about the thousands of years, the many great dynasties, and the millions of people that have inhabited its shores and survived because of its waters.

Mike O'Malley makes it to Cairo.
Cairo is where we were supposed to meet up with my best friend from college: Michael O'Malley...and his son, Chris. Mike was already in Cairo when we arrived and Chris would join us the next day. Mike is an indomitable traveler who has visited countries across the globe and spends much of his time in exotic destinations. We met up with Mike on our first evening in Cairo....and - after one day in the city - he was already full of stories and adventures. To start with he told us how he talked his way into Wimbledon during the tennis tournament (a little side trip he made since he had about a ten hour layover in London). Few people can pull off this type of stunt...but barely anything that Mike does amazes me anymore. Next, he told us about making a few friends in Islamic Cairo...one of whom took him to the top of a minaret...from which he could get an amazing view of Cairo's rooftops. His "buddy's" name is Mohammed and he owns a spice shop in Khan El-Khalili (Cairo's famously chaotic bazaar). The other fellow he met owns a perfume shop down the street from Mohammed's spice emporium. Later, we would get to meet both of these characters.

Dinner in the alleyway.
By the time that Mike made it back to the hotel, night time was approaching and we decided to head out to dinner. We settled for a place called Ar Rifai, in Midan Saiyida Zeinab in the Islamic section of Cairo. At the base of the hotel we opted to take a regular taxi instead of the hotel car...which would save us the princely sum of $5. However, as soon as we departed it became fairly apparent that the cab driver had no idea where this place was...and we had a bit of a time explaining where we needed to go. Finally - after asking many different people for directions - we ended up through a crowded doorway into an empty lot with a few tables outside in the dirt..and from there into a narrow alleyway where they were cooking sheesh-kebabs. No one spoke English..and I forgot my phrase book, but the folks were very hospitable and helped me order some food for us - which ended up being delicious. By the time we left, we felt quite at home...and on the way out we took pictures of us holding on to skewers with th erest of the kitchen staff. BTW: We're pretty sure that we never made it to Ar Rifai...but this place was excellent!!!

A little Shisha
In Egypt water pipes are called Shisha. In nicer cafes, they come in a variety of flavors from apple to mango to melasses. The café that we stumbled upon after our meal only offered tobacco flavor and it was quite harsh...but, hey...that's the Cairo experience!!! Mike and I enjoyed a little smoke after dinner while Jake watched on - having had enough water pipe experiences in Istanbul. After our smoke we headed back to the hotel...where we drank a couple of beers overlooking the view...and by 3:00am we were ready to lay our heads to sleep. Note: People think that I don't need much sleep..well, Mr. O'Malley puts me to shame...and keeps going and going and going...and then passes out. Of course I have to wait until he's passed out before i go to bed as well - not being one to retire before my friends.

The Citadel
At the far left of Alexandria's corniche sits a fortress, called the Citadel that was built by Sultain Quaitbay around 1477. The massive walls of this austere building stand as strong as they once did, and we imagine that - with its cannons pointed towards the sea, it made for quite a deterrent for potential enemies thinking about coming into Alexandria's port.
According to the histories told about the Citadel, it was built using some of the blocks remaining after the legendary Alexandria lighthouse crumbled because of a severe earthquake that devastated most of the region.

On the way there we walked by the coast, taking in the scenery. We saw fishermen mending their fishing nets...and workers busily repairing boats. We also walked by busy beaches were families sat under umbrellas enjoying the breezy seaside air - and we were not all to surprised to see that the women wore the same exact outfits they wear on the street...with many covered head to toe in black, including black gloves.

The Citadel itself was crowded with tourists...most of which were Middle Eastern. Here, one of the guards took for a "private" tour...and for that we gave him some "bakshish" (or tip). This was our first of what would become routine encounters with people offering their services and then unceremoniously expecting a tip in return. This is simply the way things are done here...so we played along.

Montaza Farouk
Later in the day we went to lunch at Mohammed Ahmed..where we enjoyed a great meal of Felafels, Hummus and Tahini. After which we headed to Montaza Farouk...which is a palace that was built by and for King Farouk...and now is used to house visiting heads of state when they happen to be in Egypt. The building sits in the middle of a large park by the seaside...way on the right hand side of Alexandria's corniche. We walked the grounds...let the breeze cool us down a bit...then we headed for our next adventure.

Colorful Fabric
Along several of our excursions I noticed a colorful fabric being used for a variety of purposes...from covering construction sites...to temporary tents for religious prayer or celebrations. The fabric features geometric patterns with very distinctively Arabic designs...and they use bright primary colors.
Determined to bring some of it home, we explained to our taxi driver what we wanted...and he obliged us by taking us to a place where we could purchase some of it from his "friend". We bought a piece that is about 5ftX10ft. The front is a silk-like material...and the back is heavy ticking fabric...making it a rather bulky souvenir - but, hey...that's not that unusual for me to buy something that is somewhat difficult to bring back! (My guess is that we'll have to ship it from Cairo). I still don't know what to do with it once I get it back..but it might make for a spectacular tablecloth for a big Middle Eastern styled feast.

Alexandria: 2 - Schutz

Schutz American School
The two high school years I spent in Alexandria where some of the best of my life. That is when I fell in love with the city of Alexandria, and with Egypt and its people...and that is one of the reasons I wanted to bring Jake here after he graduated from High School. So...we made a pilgrimage to Schutz American School...with more than a litttle trepidation on my part and a quite a bit of anticipation.

As we drove the narrow, dusty street that lead to the front gate of the school, a wave of familiarity washed over me. My mind struggled to remember details from those days long ago, when Jimmy - our driver - would drop us off and pick us up from school...driving up and down the same street that I was now checking out from the back of the taxi, with Jake at my side.

At the gate, the guard that sat outside was still there, like in the old days...and the gate itself was a lot like I remembered as well. We arrived late and the school was about to close...and there was no one there but a gatekeeper. We explained to him that I had attended that school and he let us wander in and take a look at the buildings. I walked up the driveway and was surprised to see how little things had changed. The basketball court on the left was till there...as was the cafeteria with the boarding rooms above it. At he top of the driveway there were a couple of round cement tables with benches around them...and I remembered sitting there long ago discussing politics and Camus with my friend, Milan Palian. The building that housed the classrooms where we studied Middle Eastern history and philosophy was also mostly unchanged. The pool was also virtually the same. However, the place that I had hoped would not have changed at all was the one that had changed the most...and that was the tennis court. There I played long games of tennis with Milan under the Egyptian sun...on a court that was surfaced in tiles...and was the fastest surface I have ever experienced. Today, they've turned it into a multi-sport facility...and it has a roof to shield the athletes from the sun.

The visit to Schutz was a highlight for me. I enjoyed sharing he experience with Jake and walking him through some of the places I had spent so much time in at his age.

Alexandria: 1 - Impressions.

Alexandria: A city that has lost its charm.
I spent a couple of my most formative and most wonderful years in Alexandria...and I was anxious to visit the city that held such a fond place in my heart and in my memories. As it turns out, Alexandria is no longer the place it used to be. Although there is still some of the old charm left, the graceful city with its elegant architecture has evolved into a sprawling metropolis stretching itself on the shores of the Mediterranean. The buildings that line the "Corniche" - which is the street that runs along the sea - is littered with large new buildings (most of which are fine examples of perfectly mediocre design and generally poor building standards) next to old decrepit structures that once had lots of style but are now falling apart in a sad state of neglect. And, in between the two are long stretches of absolutely horrific walls decorated with tiles that I am sure have Cleopatra and Nefertiti turning in their graves in shame for what her descendants are building on the remains of what was once such a beautiful place.

Alexandria occasionally reveals glimpses of its former glory...but it took me some time to get over the shock of how much the place had changed in 30 years. In the photos here, are some of the stuff we observed on one of our walks from one side of the city to the other.

Alexandria is in the Middle East.
Being in Alexandria was clearly different than Istanbul. Although Alexandria was once famed for its European influence, it was obvious we were now in a Middle Eastern city. For example, as opposed to Istanbul, we saw many people praying on rugs laid out on sidewalks. And, the way that people seem to ignore the cars heading straight for them at breakneck speed (with no intention to slow down) combined with the food being sold at street corners and off of carts everywhere, all contribute to a state of general chaos that is so foreign to Westerners...and is so definitely reflective of the Arabic culture.

Americans are considered terrorists.
Alexandria let us know we were now in Egypt....yet, for most part its people were friendly and affable towards us...even if, in general, Americans come from a country whose leadership has severely damaged the nation's reputation and credibility. We must not forget that in Muslim countries, America is considered the terrorist enemy. For some of the most uneducated folks (and there are many of them in Egypt - as there are also many back at home) sometimes it is difficult to separate their feelings for the American government from their feelings for the American people...even though many Americans do not agree with their government's policies. That said, many people made it clear that they did not like Bush...but that did not mean they did not like Americans. However, the vibe is sometimes a bit uncomfortable and some times unnerving.

Patisserie Delices
And now for a food update: The internet fees in our hotel were outrageous....so we found a café across the street that offered us a respite from the heat and free internet access. Café Delices is an old café next to the Metropole Hotel, and here we discovered the most delicious lemon juice and the best pastries in Alexandria. Let it be said, that we spent some time there every day..and that Jake was very happy to continue to indulge in his search for the perfect Baklava.

Traveler's Diarrhea.
On the basis of keeping friend and family informed of our travel adventures, we would be remiss not to mention that by the time we got to Alexandria, Jake and I had contracted a nice case of "Traveler's Diarrhea". For everybody's sake I will not go into detail...or post any pictures documenting this unpleasant aspect of our travels....let's just say it was not pretty. (We're much better now, BTW!).

Alexandria: 1 - The Library

The Great Library of Alexandria.
Built about five or six years ago, the Alexandria library is possibly one of the most impressive modern buildings I have ever visited. I believe that the goal was to create a modern version of the fabled Alexandria Library from ancient times - that was rumored to house more books than any other building in the world...and was lost to a fire. More than a library, the building feels like a cathedral built to celebrate the written word. The immense building is very unorthodox both from the outside as the inside.

The outside looks like a an angled stadium with lots of glass and metal. The façade, a curved surface emerging from the ground and reflecting the bright sunlight and the blue sky, reminded me of a gigantic solar panel. Once inside, the building reveals a very large open space supported by tall cement columns that reach up to an intricate ceiling. The ceiling shields the space from direct sunlight, while allowing plenty of natural light to illuminate the interiors. Some of the light is filtered through colored glass, which adds to the jewel-like effect of the architectural glass.

The interiors showcase a delicate balance of shapes, textures and finishes that create a dynamic and complex environment. The space has a very spiritual quality that combines Arabic themes with modern materials and shapes...and I could see that this could be a prototype for a modern Mosque.

The building is visited by many school children and people that also seem to use it for what is intended...a place to read books. Additionally, the library has several spaces dedicated to permanent and temporary museum exhibitions that range from architectural artifacts and Islamic calligraphy, to modern art and retrospectives of the work of local artists, musicians, film makers, etc. We walked through most of the exhibits, including a temporary exhibit of works on paper that featured hand-made books by artists from all over the world.

Alexandria: 1 - Here we are!

Arriving in Egypt.
We flew from Istanbul to Cairo on EgyptAir. The trip was uneventful...except for a nice meal that they served us on the plane. Jake - in the rule that he has assumed as traveling food critic - observed that the food on airlines outside of the US seems to be much better than anything that is served to passengers on national flights.

The Desert Road from Alexandria to Cairo.
At the airport we met up with Ahmed...the driver that would take us to Alexandria from Cairo. The road that connects the two cities is one that I used to remember from the time I lived here, long ago. The desert road made for a beautiful drive with expansive views of the desert on both sides...and one lonely stop half way between the two cities where travelers could stop for a cup of tea and a bite to eat. Unfortunately the two lane road is no longer as romantic as I remembered it, and now it is a 3 lane highway with billboards along most of the route....and trees and buildings of all sorts littering the view. I guess I should be happy for the progress and the development that is taking place in Egypt...but in truth I am disappointed that the landscape is changing so rapidly and in such a miserable fashion.

The Cecil Hotel.
We checked into our hotel...the Hotel Cecil - a landmark in Alexandria since 1912. The building has aged gracefully and it retains some of the charm of its glory days inthe 1930's when it was the place to stay in this seaside city. The hotel is located on Saad Zaghlul Square which sports a garden with a statue of Saad Zaghul...whom I understand was a mayor of Alexandria (but I could easily be wrong)....and it faces the Mediterranean along the famed Alexandria Corniche.

Funny Stuff: Please Vote!!!

Retard or Sin Hunter?
We keep asking people to vote on stuff...like Jake's Beard, for example...and no one responds, so I am hoping that people will comment on this posting. We spent a few hours in the Istanbul airport on our way to Egypt..since, apparently, you can't fly from Israel to Egypt directly...and I walked over to the airport pharmacy to purchase some bug repellent for Jake. Once there a logo caught my eye and I took a picture of it..and asked the woman at the pharmacy what it was. She blushed and went and got a male assistant who explained to me that it was a logo for erectile dysfunction products. First of all...who would have thunk that the Turks needed this? Secondly...well, it did get my attention so I started perusing the section in more detail.
A product caught my attention: RETARD. I guess that it's supposed to indicate that it "retards" ejaculation...but I wonder if they know what the word means or why sales of the product in English speaking countries are...well....soft. (Sorry could not help myself). So I sent the picture to a few people at work (as a point of reference for why it's important to get good translators)....and a couple fo folks pointed out that the product next to RETARD was even better..it is called SIN HUNTER.
Please send us your comments!
So our question is: Which do you like best... Retard or Sin Hunter?
We'd love to hear your feedback...just click on "comment" at the end of the posting.

Jerusalem: Yanek's Photos

More pics from the Holy Land.
Yanek sent me these photos immediately after our journey to Jerusalem...but I have been so busy while in Egypt...that I did not even get a chance to download them until today. They're very nice shots, so I am enclosing them with this post. I am especially grateful for the shot of the security wall, as my camera could not have captured it (too far away).
Thanks, Yanek!!!!!