The Citadel
At the far left of Alexandria's corniche sits a fortress, called the Citadel that was built by Sultain Quaitbay around 1477. The massive walls of this austere building stand as strong as they once did, and we imagine that - with its cannons pointed towards the sea, it made for quite a deterrent for potential enemies thinking about coming into Alexandria's port.
According to the histories told about the Citadel, it was built using some of the blocks remaining after the legendary Alexandria lighthouse crumbled because of a severe earthquake that devastated most of the region.

On the way there we walked by the coast, taking in the scenery. We saw fishermen mending their fishing nets...and workers busily repairing boats. We also walked by busy beaches were families sat under umbrellas enjoying the breezy seaside air - and we were not all to surprised to see that the women wore the same exact outfits they wear on the street...with many covered head to toe in black, including black gloves.

The Citadel itself was crowded with tourists...most of which were Middle Eastern. Here, one of the guards took for a "private" tour...and for that we gave him some "bakshish" (or tip). This was our first of what would become routine encounters with people offering their services and then unceremoniously expecting a tip in return. This is simply the way things are done here...so we played along.

Montaza Farouk
Later in the day we went to lunch at Mohammed Ahmed..where we enjoyed a great meal of Felafels, Hummus and Tahini. After which we headed to Montaza Farouk...which is a palace that was built by and for King Farouk...and now is used to house visiting heads of state when they happen to be in Egypt. The building sits in the middle of a large park by the seaside...way on the right hand side of Alexandria's corniche. We walked the grounds...let the breeze cool us down a bit...then we headed for our next adventure.

Colorful Fabric
Along several of our excursions I noticed a colorful fabric being used for a variety of purposes...from covering construction sites...to temporary tents for religious prayer or celebrations. The fabric features geometric patterns with very distinctively Arabic designs...and they use bright primary colors.
Determined to bring some of it home, we explained to our taxi driver what we wanted...and he obliged us by taking us to a place where we could purchase some of it from his "friend". We bought a piece that is about 5ftX10ft. The front is a silk-like material...and the back is heavy ticking fabric...making it a rather bulky souvenir - but, hey...that's not that unusual for me to buy something that is somewhat difficult to bring back! (My guess is that we'll have to ship it from Cairo). I still don't know what to do with it once I get it back..but it might make for a spectacular tablecloth for a big Middle Eastern styled feast.

Alexandria: 2 - Schutz

Schutz American School
The two high school years I spent in Alexandria where some of the best of my life. That is when I fell in love with the city of Alexandria, and with Egypt and its people...and that is one of the reasons I wanted to bring Jake here after he graduated from High School. So...we made a pilgrimage to Schutz American School...with more than a litttle trepidation on my part and a quite a bit of anticipation.

As we drove the narrow, dusty street that lead to the front gate of the school, a wave of familiarity washed over me. My mind struggled to remember details from those days long ago, when Jimmy - our driver - would drop us off and pick us up from school...driving up and down the same street that I was now checking out from the back of the taxi, with Jake at my side.

At the gate, the guard that sat outside was still there, like in the old days...and the gate itself was a lot like I remembered as well. We arrived late and the school was about to close...and there was no one there but a gatekeeper. We explained to him that I had attended that school and he let us wander in and take a look at the buildings. I walked up the driveway and was surprised to see how little things had changed. The basketball court on the left was till there...as was the cafeteria with the boarding rooms above it. At he top of the driveway there were a couple of round cement tables with benches around them...and I remembered sitting there long ago discussing politics and Camus with my friend, Milan Palian. The building that housed the classrooms where we studied Middle Eastern history and philosophy was also mostly unchanged. The pool was also virtually the same. However, the place that I had hoped would not have changed at all was the one that had changed the most...and that was the tennis court. There I played long games of tennis with Milan under the Egyptian sun...on a court that was surfaced in tiles...and was the fastest surface I have ever experienced. Today, they've turned it into a multi-sport facility...and it has a roof to shield the athletes from the sun.

The visit to Schutz was a highlight for me. I enjoyed sharing he experience with Jake and walking him through some of the places I had spent so much time in at his age.

Alexandria: 1 - Impressions.

Alexandria: A city that has lost its charm.
I spent a couple of my most formative and most wonderful years in Alexandria...and I was anxious to visit the city that held such a fond place in my heart and in my memories. As it turns out, Alexandria is no longer the place it used to be. Although there is still some of the old charm left, the graceful city with its elegant architecture has evolved into a sprawling metropolis stretching itself on the shores of the Mediterranean. The buildings that line the "Corniche" - which is the street that runs along the sea - is littered with large new buildings (most of which are fine examples of perfectly mediocre design and generally poor building standards) next to old decrepit structures that once had lots of style but are now falling apart in a sad state of neglect. And, in between the two are long stretches of absolutely horrific walls decorated with tiles that I am sure have Cleopatra and Nefertiti turning in their graves in shame for what her descendants are building on the remains of what was once such a beautiful place.

Alexandria occasionally reveals glimpses of its former glory...but it took me some time to get over the shock of how much the place had changed in 30 years. In the photos here, are some of the stuff we observed on one of our walks from one side of the city to the other.

Alexandria is in the Middle East.
Being in Alexandria was clearly different than Istanbul. Although Alexandria was once famed for its European influence, it was obvious we were now in a Middle Eastern city. For example, as opposed to Istanbul, we saw many people praying on rugs laid out on sidewalks. And, the way that people seem to ignore the cars heading straight for them at breakneck speed (with no intention to slow down) combined with the food being sold at street corners and off of carts everywhere, all contribute to a state of general chaos that is so foreign to Westerners...and is so definitely reflective of the Arabic culture.

Americans are considered terrorists.
Alexandria let us know we were now in Egypt....yet, for most part its people were friendly and affable towards us...even if, in general, Americans come from a country whose leadership has severely damaged the nation's reputation and credibility. We must not forget that in Muslim countries, America is considered the terrorist enemy. For some of the most uneducated folks (and there are many of them in Egypt - as there are also many back at home) sometimes it is difficult to separate their feelings for the American government from their feelings for the American people...even though many Americans do not agree with their government's policies. That said, many people made it clear that they did not like Bush...but that did not mean they did not like Americans. However, the vibe is sometimes a bit uncomfortable and some times unnerving.

Patisserie Delices
And now for a food update: The internet fees in our hotel were outrageous....so we found a café across the street that offered us a respite from the heat and free internet access. Café Delices is an old café next to the Metropole Hotel, and here we discovered the most delicious lemon juice and the best pastries in Alexandria. Let it be said, that we spent some time there every day..and that Jake was very happy to continue to indulge in his search for the perfect Baklava.

Traveler's Diarrhea.
On the basis of keeping friend and family informed of our travel adventures, we would be remiss not to mention that by the time we got to Alexandria, Jake and I had contracted a nice case of "Traveler's Diarrhea". For everybody's sake I will not go into detail...or post any pictures documenting this unpleasant aspect of our travels....let's just say it was not pretty. (We're much better now, BTW!).

Alexandria: 1 - The Library

The Great Library of Alexandria.
Built about five or six years ago, the Alexandria library is possibly one of the most impressive modern buildings I have ever visited. I believe that the goal was to create a modern version of the fabled Alexandria Library from ancient times - that was rumored to house more books than any other building in the world...and was lost to a fire. More than a library, the building feels like a cathedral built to celebrate the written word. The immense building is very unorthodox both from the outside as the inside.

The outside looks like a an angled stadium with lots of glass and metal. The façade, a curved surface emerging from the ground and reflecting the bright sunlight and the blue sky, reminded me of a gigantic solar panel. Once inside, the building reveals a very large open space supported by tall cement columns that reach up to an intricate ceiling. The ceiling shields the space from direct sunlight, while allowing plenty of natural light to illuminate the interiors. Some of the light is filtered through colored glass, which adds to the jewel-like effect of the architectural glass.

The interiors showcase a delicate balance of shapes, textures and finishes that create a dynamic and complex environment. The space has a very spiritual quality that combines Arabic themes with modern materials and shapes...and I could see that this could be a prototype for a modern Mosque.

The building is visited by many school children and people that also seem to use it for what is intended...a place to read books. Additionally, the library has several spaces dedicated to permanent and temporary museum exhibitions that range from architectural artifacts and Islamic calligraphy, to modern art and retrospectives of the work of local artists, musicians, film makers, etc. We walked through most of the exhibits, including a temporary exhibit of works on paper that featured hand-made books by artists from all over the world.

Alexandria: 1 - Here we are!

Arriving in Egypt.
We flew from Istanbul to Cairo on EgyptAir. The trip was uneventful...except for a nice meal that they served us on the plane. Jake - in the rule that he has assumed as traveling food critic - observed that the food on airlines outside of the US seems to be much better than anything that is served to passengers on national flights.

The Desert Road from Alexandria to Cairo.
At the airport we met up with Ahmed...the driver that would take us to Alexandria from Cairo. The road that connects the two cities is one that I used to remember from the time I lived here, long ago. The desert road made for a beautiful drive with expansive views of the desert on both sides...and one lonely stop half way between the two cities where travelers could stop for a cup of tea and a bite to eat. Unfortunately the two lane road is no longer as romantic as I remembered it, and now it is a 3 lane highway with billboards along most of the route....and trees and buildings of all sorts littering the view. I guess I should be happy for the progress and the development that is taking place in Egypt...but in truth I am disappointed that the landscape is changing so rapidly and in such a miserable fashion.

The Cecil Hotel.
We checked into our hotel...the Hotel Cecil - a landmark in Alexandria since 1912. The building has aged gracefully and it retains some of the charm of its glory days inthe 1930's when it was the place to stay in this seaside city. The hotel is located on Saad Zaghlul Square which sports a garden with a statue of Saad Zaghul...whom I understand was a mayor of Alexandria (but I could easily be wrong)....and it faces the Mediterranean along the famed Alexandria Corniche.

Funny Stuff: Please Vote!!!

Retard or Sin Hunter?
We keep asking people to vote on stuff...like Jake's Beard, for example...and no one responds, so I am hoping that people will comment on this posting. We spent a few hours in the Istanbul airport on our way to Egypt..since, apparently, you can't fly from Israel to Egypt directly...and I walked over to the airport pharmacy to purchase some bug repellent for Jake. Once there a logo caught my eye and I took a picture of it..and asked the woman at the pharmacy what it was. She blushed and went and got a male assistant who explained to me that it was a logo for erectile dysfunction products. First of all...who would have thunk that the Turks needed this? Secondly...well, it did get my attention so I started perusing the section in more detail.
A product caught my attention: RETARD. I guess that it's supposed to indicate that it "retards" ejaculation...but I wonder if they know what the word means or why sales of the product in English speaking countries are...well....soft. (Sorry could not help myself). So I sent the picture to a few people at work (as a point of reference for why it's important to get good translators)....and a couple fo folks pointed out that the product next to RETARD was even better..it is called SIN HUNTER.
Please send us your comments!
So our question is: Which do you like best... Retard or Sin Hunter?
We'd love to hear your feedback...just click on "comment" at the end of the posting.

Jerusalem: Yanek's Photos

More pics from the Holy Land.
Yanek sent me these photos immediately after our journey to Jerusalem...but I have been so busy while in Egypt...that I did not even get a chance to download them until today. They're very nice shots, so I am enclosing them with this post. I am especially grateful for the shot of the security wall, as my camera could not have captured it (too far away).
Thanks, Yanek!!!!!