Istanbul: Day 4 - The last night.

Our last night in Istanbul.
Both of us really liked Istanbul...but, other than the first night here, we had not been able to stay up very late. In fact, a couple of times we headed home around 7:00 for a quick "nap" ...and never made it out again. So, on our last night we were determined to stay up and check out the city after dusk.
The night markets.
We walked the streets and noticed that around the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, business is still brisk in the waning hours of the day. Souvenir and rug shops keep their doors open, trying to seduce tourists into purchasing some of their wares. We walked on...and are very proud to say that we left Turkey without buying a rug. Not an easy feat for me, but I did accomplish it.
The show at the Blue Mosque.
We walked around the Blue Mosque and into its courtyard. Outside the loudspeakers were blaring something in French (it sounded good, as the French language can, sometimes, be pleasant to the ear)....and the lights of the Mosque were being dimmed and brightened to the cadence of the reading and the music that accompanied it. The Blue Mosque looked absolutely incredible...and you kind-a expected Aladdin to cruise by on his flying carpet.
We also wandered inside the courtyard...which was also lit and created a beautiful setting for a night promenade - and many groups (families and friends) were walking inside holding low volume conversation.
The Sufi dancer.
Finally, we went over to the cafe that sits at the side of the Mosque...lured by the sound of Sufi music. That's where we ordered the all-too-delicious Turkish Viagra...and I (not Jake) enjoyed a smoke of the water pipe while we listened to the sound from the ancient instruments and watched a dancer, his white costume floating around him as he twirled in place...seemingly in a trance.
It was truly a magical evening...and an epic way to end our stay in the magnificent city of Istanbul.

Istanbul: Day 4 - Food.

Turkish food rocks.
I know. I will probably be stopped at the Rome Airport and my nationality will be put in question for saying this...but the Turkish food is really, really good. Some people don't think that we eat when we travel...well, let me tell you...that has not been the case. Today we ate like Sultans.
Lunch:
We had lunch at the Spice Market...a simple sandwich from a street corner shop ended up being one of the best sandwiches either of us had ever devoured in about 30 seconds flat. We enjoyed them in a subterranean room about the size of a closet - although they tried to disguise the tight quarters by lining the room with mirrors...but to no avail, the place was tiny. However, the food was AWESOME. From there we indulged in a little Turkish Baklava...which we ate at another corner eatery, this time on the second floor. We sat by a window and enjoyed our delicacies while watching the chaos below. Cable cars, automobiles, buses, bicycles, carts, motorcycles, pedestrians, cats, etc....all going in different directions at the same time...and each making its own sound from screaming to honking.
Dinner:
Dinner was had at one of many little neighborhood restaurants set up on the sidewalk of a small alleyway. The food was simply amazing. It was fresh and delicious...and we ate absolutely everything that was brought to us. And the waiter kept bringing stuff for us to try...a side of eggplant with tomatoes and garlic was to die for...and for dessert he brought some more Turkish dessert with almonds and pinenuts (after we already had ordered more Turkish baklava and rice pudding). Everything he served us was on the house...including some apple tea to wash it down with.
More Dessert!
And we were not done. Later at a cafe, we ordered Turkish Viagra...which consists of sliced bananas, milk and crushed pistachios. Mind you, I don't even like dessert...but I did like the idea of trying a dessert called Viagra!!!

Istanbul: Day 4 - Random observations.

Random sightings and observations.
Now that we've walked across town countless times, we've started to notice some patterns and other stuff. So, we thought we'd share it with you. We probably will keep sharing stuff like this with you, so please bear with us. The captions will serve as an explanation to why the photos are in this blog. Feel free to comment, explain...or just plain disagree.

Istanbul: Day 4 - Beards

Travel beards....should we keep them?
We have not been gone that long, but the trip is already showing in our faces. In the form of new growth...as in hairy stuff...beards, that is. Both Jake and I have given up on shaving...at least for now, and have grown quite irsute over the last week. As we make progress, I think we may keep you all updated on our facial developments. Let us know what you think about Jake's question....should he shave?

Istanbul: Day 4 - Shooting.

Shooting by the Acqueduct.
As we tried to find our way to the Sultanhmet Mosque we ran into the Roman Acqueduct that once brought water to the city. There we found an old man sitting under an umbrella. He had set up a makeshift shooting gallery with the Acqueduct walls as his backdrop and a few cans and bottles as the targets. So...once we heard the shots and saw the guns, we could not stop from going over and see if we could give it a shot (sorry for the pun). Jake - as it happens - is quite the marksman...and he tried his hand at the rifle and the pistol, with equal success. I had a couple of lucky shots myself...and so we left, feeling energized and manly. It's weird how two guys that don't approve of war or shooting animals still can't help but enjoy shooting guns.
:)

Istanbul: Day 4 - The other side.

The other side of town.
After walking through the Palace...we went for a walk on the other side of town...just for a reality check. We found that some of the buildings are in such a state of disrepair that it is simply amazing that people live in them...and that they don't just crumble. The poverty of many of the people in Istanbul is quite evident...however, we also found that the people are just as friendly and seemingly happy as they are in the richer areas. They are a busy lot, working their shops, carrying loads of stuff from here to there...and - just like everyone else - sitting down for a little tea and an occasional game of backgammon. We're including some of the photos we took as we wandered off the tourist map.

Istanbul: Day 4 - Topkapi Palace.

The Palace and the Harem.
On our last day in Istanbul we decided to visit Topkapi Palace - which was where the Sultans lived during the Ottoman Empire...and boy, did those guys know how to live! First of all, you got to hand it to the Turks for having Harems in their Palaces. The Ottoman Muslims had a lot of rules...but then again, they also knew how to relax! Secondly (besides the enviable lifestyle) the architecture and interiors are magnificent...with every area more spectacular, more opulent and richer in patterns and details than the one before it. The view from the balconies is also pretty amazing...overlooking the water and the city's skyline all around. We spent about two hours wandering around the grounds...and then we got tired of seeing so much beautiful stuff...and we went for a walk on the other side of town, to purchase a bit of Turkish Delight to bring back home (Stacy is pretty fond of the stuff...and we thought she'd like some straight from Istanbul's Spice Market).

WaterPipe Video

I finally figured out how to post a video.
So...here is the one I made of Jake and his first experience with a water pipe. We sat at this cool little cafe in an alley near the Spice Market and we indulged ourselves in some of the local traditions. It was a first for Jake, so I thought I'd capture it on video.

Istanbul: Day 3 - The Tattoo Cafe

The Tattoo Cafe.
No...this is not what you think. I mean...well...after the Turkish bath experience, it seems natural that we might decide to get some tattoos...but that's not what happened. Instead, feeling rather exhausted (instead of refreshed) we headed towards town in search of a cafe where we could sit a spell...drink some tea...read and draw. And so, we did. We found a small cafe in an alley, and sat down on the floor amongst pillows and rugs at a low table with a water pipe. We ordered a beer and some hummus and proceeded to make ourselves comfortable. jake pulled out "War and Peace" and I pulled out my sketching stuff and started drawing. Soon, the waiter came over and said he liked the drawing I was doing and almost immediately asked me if I would draw something on him. Weird, eh? This is something that I do occasionally...but rarely I am asked to do it on someone I don't even know....totally out of the blue.

So I agreed and drew a snake on a dagger...as that's what Muslim, the young waiter had asked me to do. Well...I added the dagger part. Next thing you know, there is a line of waiters asking for me to draw something on them...one of them wanted his name on his arm (Ozturk) ...the other left it up to me (so I gave him a classic heart with the word "MOM" on a scroll)...and the youngest one of all (Agit) asked me to write his name on his arm also. This was the highlight of the day. Jake engaged Muslim in conversation...and the young man soon disclosed that he was in love with a girl from Latvia...but she had left to go to work in London and they had corresponded for a year on the internet, but now he had not heard from her in a while and seemed quite broken hearted. Apparently they had only spent two days together in Turkey...but they had kissed and hugged...and he fell hard for her. It was a lovely story...and we felt lucky to have met these people...who seemed so nice and innocent and genuine (much unlike the Kurd from the other side of town).

Istanbul: Day 3 - Asia Side

Kadikoy.
Today we ventured across the water in a ferryboat to Kadikoy, on the Asia side. Jake was excited to set foot on the Asian continent for his first time. We walked from our hotel along the water to the dock...bought a token (for about 75 cents) and boarded the ferry. 15-20 minutes later we were in Kadikoy. Along the way we were treated to a spectacular view of the sprawling city and its skyline, which is marked with numerous minarets and domes.

Meeting Komache.
Kadikoy was not as cool as the Historic Peninsula...but we enjoyed a walk through a market selling fresh fish...then we sat at a restaurant an ordered a helping of sardines as an appetizer, and we both had seabass for lunch. There, we were accosted by a man whose name was Komache (or something like that). He didn't strike us as genuine. He introduced himself as a Kurd and the he some tall tales about living in Italy and Germany...and serving in the military. He showed us pictures of his kids and introduced us to the "boss" of the area...also a Kurd. We got the sense that the people at the restaurant did not take him seriously...and he seemed to be exaggerating everything. I tried a glass of Raki with him (which is much like Greek Ouzo)...and was way to strong a drink in which to indulge in the middle of the day. So...we were happy to say goodbye to our new "friend" and we wandered off to explore Kadikoy.

The demonstration.
This area of Istanbul is clearly less touristy...probably because it lacks in the rich historical sights of the other peninsula. Instead, there is a smattering of stores selling cheaply made clothing and neo-punk fashions that you can get in the States. We decided to wander off towards the water...and we ran into a demonstration with lots of people waving Turkish flags...wearing white and listening to someone blaring a speech that could be heard over the crowds through loud speakers. Police in riot gear dotted the areas around the demonstration...and makeshift cyclone fences with the word "POLIS" on them surrounded the demonstrators. Jake was a bit nervous about it...thinking that it may be an anti-American thing..but I asked a policeman, and he explained that it was a rally against a development in the Eastern part of Turkey, were a dam was being planned that would disrupt the natural environment. I get the feeling that after Jake goes to Berkeley he'll be quite used to this type of thing. Growing up in Rome I've seen my share of demonstrations and I don't find them terribly worrysome. Maybe I should...but I don't think anything serious will ever happen.

Back to the Peninsula.
We decided to hop a ferry and head back to the Peninsula and take a break at the park we had visited yesterday. So we did. Being that it was Sunday, the park was very crowded...but still quite pleasant. We sat on the grass, looked up at the trees and the birds...and enjoyed watching the procession of people who strolled in the shade and sat amongst the trees. I made some short films holding my camera and walking through the crowds...and Jake kept walking in front of me exhibiting a variety of silly walks (a la Monthy Python).

The Cagaloglou Turkish Baths.
Tiring of laying on the grass, we decided to walk up the hill in search of a new activity. So, I dragged Jake to the Turkish baths. This was something that I had wanted to do...but Jake was not convinced that it was such a good idea. So...we entered the baths and I signed up for a full (assisted) bath and massage...and Jake selected the self-service version. After paying the fees, we were shown a small changing room for each of us, where we took our clothes off and wrapped our bodies into a plaid scarf of sorts. We were given some rather uncomfortable wooden sandles...and we were told to go through a small door.

The small door opened up to a large circular room covered in marble and surrounded by columns. The room was steamy and at first it was hard to see...but as soon as your eyes adjusted, you could see that light poured in from small circular windows cut out from the large dome that served as the ceiling. In the room there were only men...all wearing the same thing we were. Some of them were laying down on a raised area in the middle of the room, being loudly massaged by mostly quite large Turkish men. Others sat on a step that went around the room...by water fountains ...and they were being thoroughly washed by the same large Turkish men.

I must admit that at first I thought that perhaps Jake was right in being apprehensive.

I spotted Jake in a corner, sitting on the marble step by one of the fountains...occasionally throwing water on himself. I sat next to him...but soon he started to throw cold water on me. So, I was glad that a big overweight Turk motioned that I should get my skinny ass on the marble counter. There he proceeded to "massage" me...which included bending my legs over my chest, then using his entire weight to stretch me. It was...interesting...and I could not help but laugh out loud. After he was done torturing me he proceeded to wash my entire body with soab, then he scrubbed me hard...and showed me how much of my skin was coming off. I must admit that I did feel cleaner.

After all this, Jake and I sat in the hot room for a while and chatted there with a couple of nice guys from Holland. One of them worked for Kodak....and was heading to the States soon for a 3 week vacation with his family. he made it a point to say that the US was very affordable these days. (Thanks, Mr. Bush!).

At the end of the bath, we changed back into our clothes...and on the way out I asked whether it was OK to take a picture, and they told me yes...so I approached our new Dutch friends, and engaged them in a "Kodak moment". :)

Istanbul: Day 2 - Gulhane Park

Gulhane Park.
After walking back across the bridge we went to Gulhane Park for a change of pace and scenery. The park is a beautiful, calm and cool oasis in the middle of frenetic activity. The sycamore trees provide great shading and many families sit on the grass enjoying their Saturday afternoon picnics. Also...Jake dubbed one of the walking paths "Couples Alley" - since every bench showcased a couple in a vast array of embraces. Although the women are covered up...I guess it's still OK to do some old-fashioned cuddling in public (at least at the park). We sat on teh grass for a while...then we headed home - where we proceeded to pass out early. I woke up at around 9:30...Jake was passed out on the floor, with "War and Peace" by his side. We both decided that a little sleep was better than food...and we didn't wake up until 5:30 this morning.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Galata Tower Cafe

Galata Tower Cafe.
After descending the tower we decide to take a little break and have a tea at a nearby cafe. We found this very cool little spot, where we sat for a while. I sketched and Jake read "War and Peace"...until some Turkish guy with aloud and obnoxious voice sat nearby making it impossible to concentrate on anything but his machine-gun-like delivery.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Galata Tower

Galata Tower.
After crossing the bridge and having lunch by the sea, we walked over to Galata Tower. The tower was built hundreds of years ago...as a military viewing tower and as a way to spot potential fires. Ironically, the tower itself caught fire a few times, so it has undergone a seres of rather sad renovations. Today it houses a bar/restaurant and a night club...but we went up to see the view...which is quite impressive. From the top you can see all around and you realize what a big place Istanbul is. I spotted a very cool rooftop...that looks like may be on its way to be a modern bar (picture). Also...we learned that sometimes in 16-something a fellow strapped n some wings and jumped off the tower...flying all the way to the Bosphorous (about 6 miles away). I wonder if anyone told the Wright Brothers 'bout that! Apparently his feat made him too dangerous and the Sultan decided to put him in jail. Oh, well.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Wandering Across the Bridge

Over the bridge.
As we walked over the bridge we caught a nice view of two sides of Istanbul: The Historic Peninsula on one side, and the Beyoglu District on the other. Above are a couple of pictures: One of them is looking back at one of the many Mosques...this one with its minarets covered in scaffolding. The other is towards the Beyoglu District...towards Galata Tower - which was our destination. We stood on the bridge's lower floor and watched the many different ferries and boats that seem to barely make it under the bridge span. In this photo we captured a tugboat adding a splash of red to the landscape.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Lunch

Lunch: Shrimp anyone?
Mid-morning we decided to venture across the bridge spanning over the Golden Horn and visit the Beyoglu District. We had lunch by the water...the shrimp were not much to write home about, but they did look quite adorable just staring at me.

Istanbul: Day 2 - Turkish Fashion

Check this out!
Again, we walked across the Historic Peninsula from the Cistern to the Spice Market. Along the way we checked out some of the latest fashions. Above are some snapshots, which include: A window displaying the latest in Turkish shoes for women; mannequins featuring what many women seem to wear out here (notice how the bald mannequins are staring at the one with the wig); we caught glimpse of a very dapper young Turk wearing a cape and carrying a scepter (you don't see that all to often in the US); and an older Turk from whom I purchased a delicious glass of apple tea.