Kadikoy.
Today we ventured across the water in a ferryboat to Kadikoy, on the Asia side. Jake was excited to set foot on the Asian continent for his first time. We walked from our hotel along the water to the dock...bought a token (for about 75 cents) and boarded the ferry. 15-20 minutes later we were in Kadikoy. Along the way we were treated to a spectacular view of the sprawling city and its skyline, which is marked with numerous minarets and domes.
Meeting Komache.
Kadikoy was not as cool as the Historic Peninsula...but we enjoyed a walk through a market selling fresh fish...then we sat at a restaurant an ordered a helping of sardines as an appetizer, and we both had seabass for lunch. There, we were accosted by a man whose name was Komache (or something like that). He didn't strike us as genuine. He introduced himself as a Kurd and the he some tall tales about living in Italy and Germany...and serving in the military. He showed us pictures of his kids and introduced us to the "boss" of the area...also a Kurd. We got the sense that the people at the restaurant did not take him seriously...and he seemed to be exaggerating everything. I tried a glass of Raki with him (which is much like Greek Ouzo)...and was way to strong a drink in which to indulge in the middle of the day. So...we were happy to say goodbye to our new "friend" and we wandered off to explore Kadikoy.
The demonstration.
This area of Istanbul is clearly less touristy...probably because it lacks in the rich historical sights of the other peninsula. Instead, there is a smattering of stores selling cheaply made clothing and neo-punk fashions that you can get in the States. We decided to wander off towards the water...and we ran into a demonstration with lots of people waving Turkish flags...wearing white and listening to someone blaring a speech that could be heard over the crowds through loud speakers. Police in riot gear dotted the areas around the demonstration...and makeshift cyclone fences with the word "POLIS" on them surrounded the demonstrators. Jake was a bit nervous about it...thinking that it may be an anti-American thing..but I asked a policeman, and he explained that it was a rally against a development in the Eastern part of Turkey, were a dam was being planned that would disrupt the natural environment. I get the feeling that after Jake goes to Berkeley he'll be quite used to this type of thing. Growing up in Rome I've seen my share of demonstrations and I don't find them terribly worrysome. Maybe I should...but I don't think anything serious will ever happen.
Back to the Peninsula.
We decided to hop a ferry and head back to the Peninsula and take a break at the park we had visited yesterday. So we did. Being that it was Sunday, the park was very crowded...but still quite pleasant. We sat on the grass, looked up at the trees and the birds...and enjoyed watching the procession of people who strolled in the shade and sat amongst the trees. I made some short films holding my camera and walking through the crowds...and Jake kept walking in front of me exhibiting a variety of silly walks (a la Monthy Python).
The Cagaloglou Turkish Baths.
Tiring of laying on the grass, we decided to walk up the hill in search of a new activity. So, I dragged Jake to the Turkish baths. This was something that I had wanted to do...but Jake was not convinced that it was such a good idea. So...we entered the baths and I signed up for a full (assisted) bath and massage...and Jake selected the self-service version. After paying the fees, we were shown a small changing room for each of us, where we took our clothes off and wrapped our bodies into a plaid scarf of sorts. We were given some rather uncomfortable wooden sandles...and we were told to go through a small door.
The small door opened up to a large circular room covered in marble and surrounded by columns. The room was steamy and at first it was hard to see...but as soon as your eyes adjusted, you could see that light poured in from small circular windows cut out from the large dome that served as the ceiling. In the room there were only men...all wearing the same thing we were. Some of them were laying down on a raised area in the middle of the room, being loudly massaged by mostly quite large Turkish men. Others sat on a step that went around the room...by water fountains ...and they were being thoroughly washed by the same large Turkish men.
I must admit that at first I thought that perhaps Jake was right in being apprehensive.
I spotted Jake in a corner, sitting on the marble step by one of the fountains...occasionally throwing water on himself. I sat next to him...but soon he started to throw cold water on me. So, I was glad that a big overweight Turk motioned that I should get my skinny ass on the marble counter. There he proceeded to "massage" me...which included bending my legs over my chest, then using his entire weight to stretch me. It was...interesting...and I could not help but laugh out loud. After he was done torturing me he proceeded to wash my entire body with soab, then he scrubbed me hard...and showed me how much of my skin was coming off. I must admit that I did feel cleaner.
After all this, Jake and I sat in the hot room for a while and chatted there with a couple of nice guys from Holland. One of them worked for Kodak....and was heading to the States soon for a 3 week vacation with his family. he made it a point to say that the US was very affordable these days. (Thanks, Mr. Bush!).
At the end of the bath, we changed back into our clothes...and on the way out I asked whether it was OK to take a picture, and they told me yes...so I approached our new Dutch friends, and engaged them in a "Kodak moment". :)
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